Letter from Israel: A Semester Abroad in Germany – by Zohar Funk
My Journey to Karlsruhe: A Semester Abroad in Germany
Hello everyone,
My name is Zohar Funk, and I am a 26-year-old student from Israel. I am currently spending a semester studying at “Karlsruhe University of Education” in Germany. I wanted to share my experiences, challenges, and adventures with you as I navigate this exciting chapter of my life.
Why I Chose Germany
Ever since I was young, I have been fascinated by different cultures and the idea of living abroad. Germany, with its rich history and robust education system, always stood out to me as a destination I wanted to explore. Additionally as a Jewish girl whose grandparents were in the Holocaust I had the desire to explore Germany in a different light than the one I grew up watching in movies and heard about in stories. When I got the opportunity to study a semester at PH Karlsruhe, I knew I had to take it. The chance to experience life in Germany, learn from a different education system, and immerse myself in a new culture was too good to pass up.
We arrive at our destination on top of the castle in Heidelberg
First Impressions and Challenges
Arriving in Karlsruhe, I was immediately struck by how different everything felt. One of the first challenges I faced was the language barrier. Despite Germany being well-known for its high proficiency in English, I found that many people here do not speak it as fluently as I expected. This has pushed me to learn some basic German phrases to get by.
Another surprise was the weather. In July and August I anticipated warm summer days, but instead, it was still quite cold and rainy. This took some getting used to, especially coming from the much warmer climate of Israel. This has forced me to alter my wardrobe with the help of the local Primark.
It rains on our trip with the International Club
Academic Pursuits
At Karlsruhe University of Education , I enrolled in a variety of courses that piqued my interests, from “Decolonize Your Mind” to “Superhero Comics” and even “Going Green”, in which we studied in the school garden for ELT purposes. The academic environment here is stimulating, and I appreciate the different perspectives offered by my professors and classmates. These courses are helping me grow both intellectually and personally, challenging me to think critically and broaden my horizons.
The fascinating short stories we studied during the semester in “Decolonize Your Mind” have left me wondering on many topics .The picture was taken in the school garden in which we studied the course “Going Green”. I chose this course in order to take on the role of Head of Sustainability” in my campus, I gained many tools for this new role.
We made picture frames in the course “Going Green”
Exploring Germany and Beyond
One of the highlights of my time here has been the travel opportunities. I have visited Heidelberg twice – once with the International Office and once with my family. Both trips were amazing, showcasing the beauty and history of the city. I also went on an overnight trip to Tübingen, explored Stuttgart and Ludwigsburg, and even joined an Israeli delegation for a visit to the Black Forest and Strasbourg in France.
My favorite trips however were with my wife to Amsterdam in Holland, where we slept in a boat instead of a hotel and made our own Tony chocolate, Basel in Switzerland and Europa Park. Each trip has been a unique adventure, filled with stunning landscapes and new experiences.
My wife and I enjoy the beautiful city of Strasbourg
The Israeli delegation on a hike in the Black Forest
Cultural Differences
One noticeable difference between Germany and Israel is the warmth of the people. Israelis are generally very open and warm, making connections quickly. In contrast, Germans tend to be more reserved and take time to open up. This initially felt a bit isolating, but as I settled in, I came to appreciate the genuine and deep connections that do form over time.
During the semester, however, I enjoyed the company of other international students and we became great friends and had many great adventures. Additionaly, I met people in my dorms that study at different universities, and one of the even became my best friend in Germany and we even speak often now after I moved back home.
At the start of the semester the International Club in front of PH
A paddle boat ride in the amazing city of Tuebingen
A fun day trip in Karlsruhe
Embracing Nature and Hobbies
Karlsruhe is a beautiful city with lush parks and green spaces. I fell in love with walking in these parks, soaking in the tranquility and beauty of nature. It became one of my favorite pastimes and a great way to relax and reflect. Additionally, during the semester, one of the classes that I enjoyed most (“Going Green”) took place in the school garden, which was full of plants and even a pond with ducks and dragonflies.
One of my favorite parks I went to on a daily basis was incredible. I do not know its name but it was full of hares and crows and it felt like walking into a fairytale.
An incredible garden in Ludwigsburg
Staying Connected with Loved Ones
Staying connected with my loved ones back in Israel was crucial for me. My wife visited me twice, each time staying for about two weeks. These visits were wonderful, providing a comforting sense of home. I also flew back to Israel once to visit my parents. Additionally, my mother and sister-in-law flew over with my wife to celebrate my birthday with me, making it a truly special occasion.
Staying connected was important because of the ongoing war. My family lives in the north, one of the most dangerous parts in the country, which made me worry to no end. For example I onced talked to my mother on the phone and all of the sudden there was a siren and she had to run to a bomb shelter where they have no reception so I could not speak to her and know that they were safe. That was a huge source of concern for me.
My wife and I in Amsterdam near our hotel which was a boat
Cooking Adventures
Interestingly, I discovered a new hobby since coming to Germany: cooking. When I first arrived in Germany, I loved the food, like the first bratwurst I ate the day I landed in Frankfurt. However, after about a week I could not eat any German food, which felt very fatty and heavy in comparison to the very green and fresh diet I am used to in Israel. So I decided to learn how to cook. This was a fun and rewarding experience, and I enjoyed preparing meals that remind me of home and I also surprised my wife who is a chef and who never thought I could cook anything.
Final Thoughts
My time in Karlsruhe was a mix of challenges and wonderful experiences. From navigating the language barrier and dealing with unexpected weather to exploring new cities and embracing new hobbies, this journey has been transformative. I am grateful for the opportunity to study here.
Thank you for following along with my adventures.
Warm regards,
Zohar Funk
Text by Zohar Funk
Photos by Zohar Funk, Lilach Edman, Chansamone Senxayyachak, Somchai Chuangbaikham, and student members of the PH Karlsruhe International Club
A Semester in Karlsruhe University of Education: From Laos to Karlsruhe with Erasmus+ by Chansamone Sengsayyachak
Guten Tag zusammen! Hello everyone!
I am Chansamone Senxayyachak, an Erasmus+ exchange student from Laos who just finished a semester at the Karlsruhe University of Education in Karlsruhe, Germany. This is my second blog post, and I hope you enjoyed my first one. In this post, I want to share my experiences, particularly my semester here in the Karlsruhe University of Education in Karlsruhe, Germany.
I am Chansamone Senxayyachak
I have been living in Karlsruhe for almost six months now, and it feels like heaven on earth for me because I could finally live the way I have always wanted. I dreamed of living alone abroad where no one knows me, like starting a new life with new culture, new environment, and being surrounded by new people. The Erasmus+ program has been a priceless journey, offering incredible experiences such as living abroad, gaining independence, and studying at the best university in my life. It has given me the chance to meet people from various cultures, enhance my perspective, and adapt to a new environment. I had to adapt to German culture in several ways. For example, it is quite common for people to openly stare at others in public places. At first, I thought I had done something wrong, but I soon realized it is just a normal part of the culture, to look at people. Most importantly, the stay here has helped me improve my language skills, allowing me to communicate and speak more frequently.
I spent the past semester studying at the Karlsruhe University of Education and attended six courses including German Language, Linguistics for the Classroom, Global Englishes & Global Citizenship Education, Planning and Designing Lessons (PDL) for Primary and Secondary Classrooms, and Germany Today.
Linguistics for the classroom with Ms. Miaoxing
My Linguistics for the classroom seminar
My German Language seminar
It was an exciting and wonderfully enjoyable experience to take the German language course; it broadened my cultural understanding, and enhanced my overall cognitive abilities. It also opened up new opportunities and made my experience in Germany even more enriching. I know a little bit of German to order food in a shop, do my groceries, and go shopping without asking the seller to speak English. I always find it amusing when I speak German with locals, knowing I am not a native speaker, it feels like a cute and endearing situation to me. Not only was language learning enjoyable, but it was enhanced by the chance to interact with other international exchange students, as the German language class was the only one we all attended together.
The Classroom Linguistics course with Ms Miaoxing Ye was incredibly insightful. I learned that in today’s world of global communication, “good pronunciation” is not about sounding like a “native speaker” but rather about being easily understood by another international speaker/listener in a given context. I also realized the importance of developing skills for effective mutual understanding, especially since English is a global language for both native and non-native speakers. Before taking this course, I was worried about my accent and pronunciation and often felt afraid to speak English. However, I now understand that everyone has their own English variety or accent and that the key is to improve our English to be clearly understood in global communication.
Our presentation about education and culture in Laos…
… ends with a celebratation of a small Baci ceremony in class.
…we had a lot of fun
Furthermore, the seminar on “Global Englishes & Global Citizenship Education” with Prof. Dr. Isabel Martin was really interesting. It showed how important global education is for helping people understand and work together in today’s connected world. What I liked most about this course was that it brought together students from many different backgrounds, creating a lively environment where we could discuss global issues from many points of view. The students in the class were divided into groups to prepare presentations on topics related to Global English and Global Citizenship, then the course leader prepared the session with them, and they presented and involved everyone with activities afterwards to discuss the findings and new questions with the entire class. In this course, there were a lot of international students, so I also learned a lot about how English is taught in countries like Israel, Turkey, Ukraine, and South Korea, which helped me see language education from a wider perspective.
As an exchange student from Laos, Somchai and I gave a presentation about education and culture in Laos. We shared some details about the Lao language, how English is taught in Laos, and important traditions like the Baci ceremony and Lao New Year. The best part was when we held a small Baci ceremony in class, which was a unique cultural experience that allowed us to share Lao culture with our classmates – and they were very interested!
My Linguistics for the classroom seminar…
… and my Planning and Designing Lessons for the primary classroom seminar
Planning and Designing Lessons (PDL) for Primary and Secondary Classrooms with Ms Tania Brennan and Ms Rebecca Dengler was my first experience studying lesson planning for teaching. I had planned a lesson plan for primary school level in the PDL class, then I realized that creating clear goals for what students should learn and finding the right materials takes time and effort. Managing time during the lesson to cover everything without rushing can be tricky. So, teachers also have to handle different classroom behavioúrs and make adjustments if things do not go as planned. Plus, the lesson needs to fit with educational standards and requirements, which adds to the complexity.
Overall, lesson planning involves a lot of thought and preparation. In Germany, aspiring teachers must undergo one and a half years of practical pedagogical training after finishing their university degree to prove their didactic qualifications. It is a challenging process that ensures teachers are well-trained.
The last course I took was “Germany Today”, which covered Germany’s culture, climate, and history with Mr Nils Drixler. I really enjoyed this course because it helped me understand Germany better. We learned about Germany’s history, different cultures, and its unique climate. One of the highlights was learning about the Oktoberfest. This festival started in 1810 as a royal wedding party in Munich and has grown into the biggest beer festival in the world. It is a lively celebration of Bavarian culture with traditional music, costumes, and food.
Additionally, I got the opportunity to observe primary English classes in two primary schools (Strombergschule in Oberderdingen and Albert-Schweitzer-Schule in Muggensturm). I and Somchai went to the primary schools by car with Prof. Dr. Isabel Martin, who mentors the students in the ISP (Integrated Semester Practicum) by visiting their lessons in the primary classroom.
During the classes, I observed a well-prepared lesson plans and carefully arranged classrooms, which helped create a great learning environment. The lesson plans were clearly organized, with clear goals and activities that kept the pupils interested and engaged. This good planning ensured the lesson ran smoothly, making it easy for both the student-teacher and pupils to transition from one activity to another. Additionally, I was impressed by how focused and involved the children were throughout the lesson. They listened closely to instructions, took part actively in discussions, and showed real excitement for the activities. This high level of attention and participation demonstrated the success of the teaching methods and highlighted the pupils’ eagerness to learn, be part of the lesson, and communicate in English.
Observing in the primary English class with the ISP group
On the other hand, a few primary pupils were a mixture of bored, aggressive, and active, and there were some boys who were bored and aggressive, so the teacher warned them to stop that behavior, if they kept doing it, the teacher would give them the yellow card, but if after they got the yellow card they kept doing bad behaviour, the teacher was going to give them the red card. The situation had surprised me because I had not experienced something like this before. The yellow and red cards system is often used for behaviour management, the yellow card serves as a warning for minor misbehaviour and for the red card is usually issued for more serious or repeated misbehaviour (it often leads to more severe consequences such as detention, a meeting with parents, or other disciplinary actions depending on the school’s policies). This experience has taught me so many new things, such as how to teach, arrange classes, and the importance of being a good teacher in the future. Even though, I did not study teaching as my major but I really enjoyed learning about it.
Prof. Dr. Isabel and I in the primary school…
…the primary classroom where I went to observe the lessons
Along with that, I really enjoy living here, especially in the summer. In Germany, summer is a busy time with lots of social activities. I like taking photos and making videos about my life to share with my friends, family, and Savannakhet University students. I made some video about my life here and posted it on my page, ‘HelloIt’sme-Am.’ I want to show them how important English is and encourage them to study it for future opportunities.
I gained many new experiences at the Pädagogische Hochschule Karlsruhe and embraced every opportunity to learn and grow. However, without the support of Savannakhet University, the Karlsruhe University of Education, Prof. Dr. Isabel Martin, and particularly the Erasmus+ +programme, I would not have been able to achieve these valuable experiences.
Text by Chansamone Senxayyachak
Photos by Chansamone Senxayyachak, Somchai Chuangbaikham, Phetsavanh Somsivilay, Isabel Martin & Tomer Zafrir
Letter from Laos – by Somchai Chuangbaikham
Hallo!
Welcome to my first post on “The Laos Experience” blog about my first impressions in Germany. My name is Somchai Chuangbaikham. I am a third-year student at the English Department, Faculty of Linguistics and Humanities at Savannakhet University in Savannakhet Province, Laos. I was nominated by my university to study as an exchange student at Karlsruhe University of Education during the summer semester of 2024.
First arrived at Karlsruhe University of Education
Ever since I was a little child, I have always had one question on my mind: What would it be like to have the opportunity to live and study abroad, especially in Europe where the education system is advanced and the level of development is high?1 What could I learn from them to help improve my country?2 Finally, in 2024, that dream came true. I am currently living and studying in Karlsruhe, Germany, as an exchange student for the summer semester of 2024. This opportunity has made my long-awaited dream become reality, as I took the chance to apply for an Erasmus+ exchange program in 2023 at Savannakhet University. I feel incredibly fortunate to have been selected for this life-changing experience, which allows me to study in Germany through the Erasmus+ Key Action 171 Mobility Programme between Savannakhet University and Karlsruhe University of Education.
My journey began at the end of February 2024 when I was in Vientiane, sweating and waiting for my flights to Vietnam and then to Germany. It took me 12 hours to arrive in Frankfurt, Germany. This flight was the longest I have ever taken. I had never flown for such a duration before. However, it was worth it because I finally arrived in Germany or “Deutschland – the land of ideas” as one of my favourite teachers once told me.
Waiting for the flight at Wattay airport in Vientiane, Laos…
…about to board the flight
However, the journey did not stop there because I had to take a train to Karlsruhe. It was a very frustrating moment at that time since everything was new to me, and I did not have much time before the train departed. Luckily, German people are very kind and helped us along the way to our destination. Without their help, we could not have made it to Karlsruhe in time, and that was my first impression of Germany – the kindness of German people.
Waiting for the train to Karlsruhe at Frankfurt main train station…
…I finally arrived in Karlsruhe Hauptbahnhof
After arriving in Karlsruhe, my “buddy” Emily Beyer – one of the German students who volunteer help for incoming students – picked me up from the train station and took me to my dormitory. The first thing that caught my eye was the infrastructure of the city. There are many public transportation options for people to travel, such as public buses, trains, or even trams that go from the surface to underground. Moreover, there are other alternative options for traveling, like renting bicycles or e-scooters, conveniently located throughout the city.
Taking a tram to my dorm…
… beautiful sunset in Karlsruhe
Along the way to my dorm, we passed by the city center of Karlsruhe. The architecture of all the buildings is stunning. At that moment, it felt surreal, almost like a dream. Karlsruhe also has a nickname as “Fan city” because of its design layout. All the streets face towards the Karlsruhe Palace, which makes it easier to remember the way to any place.
Visited Karlsruhe Palace…
… and city center of Karlsruhe
My new home for the next few months is at Nancystraße 18 dormitory. It is a dormitory for students from all around the world to live during our studies in Karlsruhe. I got a room on the first floor, or “ground floor” as German people would call it. There is a shared kitchen, two toilets, and two bathrooms. It is quite comfortable, and there are also many additional services for us, such as a laundry room and even a bar for students to have fun and relieve all the stress from studying.
At Nancystraße 18 dormitory…
…inside my dorm’s kitchen
I realized that going to a bar does not mean we have to be drinking alcohol to have fun, but it is about talking and making a connection with new people. Whenever I go to the bar I meet many people. I was surprised to learn that nobody knows about Laos. Some people from China do not know that we exist, even though we live right next to each other!
First meal in Karlsruhe
Exploring the food scene here in Germany has been an exciting experience for me. I have tried many interesting local dishes such as Döner, Schnitzel, Currywurst, and many more. Döner is a popular Turkish-origin dish commonly found in Germany, typically consisting of seasoned meat and served in a flatbread with various toppings and sauces. Each dish has its own unique flavor that totally hooked me from the first bite!
Tried döner for the first time…
…and then headed to the mensa (canteen) to try out currywurst
However, after being here for a few weeks, I could not help but miss all the flavours of Lao cuisine that I grew up with. So, I have been trying to cook some Lao food in my dorm, like laab (a minced pork salad, the national dish of Laos) and khaopad (Lao fried rice). Luckily, I do not have to worry about finding the ingredients I need because there are plenty of supermarkets scattered throughout the city, including Asian stores, where I can find almost everything. It is very convenient and lets me recreate the authentic flavours of Lao food. Although it might not be as tasty as the dishes my mother made back home, it still does help to fulfill my cravings for Lao food.
Cooked Lao food at my dorm…
…and successfully made laab (Lao national dish)
Made it to the university!
At first glance, the building of Karlsruhe University of Education was exactly what I imagined it would look like compared to all the pictures in “The Laos Experience” blog. The international office warmly welcomed us to our new home for the next 6 months and provided all the important information for us to settle in smoothly. Furthermore, they also provide an intensive German language course for us to study the German language. Honestly, I find it similar to both English and French languages. I always try to speak German whenever I order something to practise my German here.
First day at Karlsruhe University of Education…
… in front of Building 3, where the English Department is
Time to select the courses.
The education system here is totally different compared to the Lao education system, where we do not have the opportunity to choose the courses we would like to study. But here at Karlsruhe University of Education, we had to select our own courses. We could read the course description before considering taking the course and it was all done on their digital “CMS” (course management system) StudIP. It was incredibly convenient for students.
We are the first full-degree Lao students from Savannakhet University to come here; reversely, German doctoral students come to our university. Of course, there are some difficulties in selecting courses due to the differences between our home university and Karlsruhe University of Education. Eventually, I chose to take 5 completely new courses. Thankfully, my classmates are always there to explain things when I do not understand during class. The professors here are also kind and approachable, making them feel more like friends we can rely on rather than just professors.
Studied German language for the first time…
…in my classroom at Karlsruhe University of Education
I can not stop smiling while looking at all the buildings at Karlsruhe University of Education and thinking that I finally brought myself out here, far away from my home. I am so grateful for my family, friends, and teachers at Savannakhet University who always inspire and support me, so I could achieve one of my dreams. Well, now I can proudly say that it has officially become true. From now on, it is my turn to inspire other young Lao students to follow their dreams.
On the way to my class…
… in front of building 2 of Karlsruhe University of Education
Life in Germany after two months
It was quite challenging for me as a foreigner to settle in and adapt to the lifestyle here. As many people might know, Laos is a small country in terms of economy and still considered economically undeveloped. Lao people are known for their laid-back lifestyle and having a slower pace of life.
However, I had to change my Lao habit and adapt to the lifestyle here. For example, when crossing the road in Karlsruhe, I have to press the button for the green light or use a crosswalk. Cars have to wait for pedestrians to cross first, whereas in Laos, there is no signal button for pedestrians, we can cross at any corner of the street by waiting for the cars to pass first. The street regulations in Laos are not as strict as in Germany. I also noticed that most German people are always punctual and strictly follow the rules. These are the things that I am working on to adapt and become an even more responsible person.
I was fascinated by the roads in Karlsruhe.
This is the button for giving signal to cross the road.
At first, I was overwhelmed and intimidated by the environment and the people. I had a thought that coming from such a small country, nobody would care to talk to me, and it would be hard to fit into society here or even among other international students. However, my mind changed when I first met the person who I counted the days to meet: Professor Dr. Isabel Martin. She encouraged me and gave me the best advice ever: “Everyone is different!” That one simple sentence made me realize that no one actually expects me to be like them.
She also advised me to try and jump over my inner hurdles as soon as possible so I could make the most of my time here by speaking to at least one person a day straightaway, early in my stay, and that she would ask me every night on WhatsApp if I had spoken to someone. I started talking to people the next day!
My first photo together with Professor Dr. Isabel Martin
We are all different people from different backgrounds, and I am here as a representative of the Lao people who has this opportunity to share who we are and show that we exist in this world. We are all here for the same reason which is, among other things, to find a way to improve our education back home. Thanks to her advice, since then, I am not afraid to make new friends, and I have met many amazing people both inside and outside the university. Now I know who I am to them and who they are to me.
Had a fun time watching a movie with my friends…
… and a great opportunity to share about Laos at Campus Day event!
Lastly, I would like to express my gratitude to Savannakhet University and Karlsruhe University of Education for giving us this once-in-a-life time opportunity. I am truly thankful to the International Office for their support and care throughout our stay.
Last but not least, I deeply thank Prof. Dr. Isabel Martin, whom I admire the most both as a teacher and as a person. Her strong passion and dedication to education have truly inspired me and changed my perspective on the potential of education. It is fascinating to witness what a person could change in the world through the power of education.
I firmly believe that, after my time in Karlsruhe, I will be a person who is capable of effecting positive change and improving the lives of my people back home through the knowledge and experiences I have gained. I truly wish to become that one person who can inspire others to pursue their passions and turn their dreams into reality.
So, these are my first impressions of Karlsruhe, the fan city of Germany. This is just the beginning of my journey! Stay tuned for the upcoming stories of my journey!
Best regards,
Somchai Chuangbaikham
Notes
1 The term “development” as I understand it refers to the progress and advancements in infrastructure, technology, and education in Europe. Learning from European education and societal structures, I aim to bring valuable knowledge to enhance not only my personal growth but also to contribute to my country.
2 Editor’s note: Lao students’ expectation upon first arrival in Germany (i.e. learning from Germany) is mirrored by German volunteers’ expectations upon first arrival in Lao P.D.R. (i.e. teaching in Laos) – it sometimes takes a while for our project title “Bi-directional learning and teaching” to really sink in.
Also, the common usage of the word developed implies that there is a gold-standard for “development” overall, with a desirable (refined, superior) state of development at one end of the scale and an undesirable (“raw”, unrefined, primitive, inferior) one at the other. The binary of “developed countries” and “undeveloped” or “underdeveloped countries” is a value statement rooted in eurocentricism and colonialism; the criteria by which a country is deemed developed are chosen by those who deem themselves to be developed (first used in Unterweger, J. & Frahm, M. 1 “Interview with a Chilean expat in Vientiane”).
Text by: Somchai Chuangbaikham
Photos by: Emily Beyer, Chansamone Senxayyachak, Somchai Chuangbaikham, student members of the PH Karlsruhe International Club
- 3.2019 ↩
Exploring Laos: A Comprehensive Guide to Diverse Transportation Options – by Antonia Eiser & Patricia Fromkorth (Team XII)
The various transportation opportunities in Laos
Traveling down to the South of Laos
Growing up and residing in Germany, we are accustomed to employing a range of transportation choices at home and, in keeping with the German cliché, walking a lot or cycling. Despite not owning a car, we have the privilege of using one when necessary. Additionally, we make use of public transportation options such as buses or trains, though their reliability may vary. In urban settings, accessible E-Scooters offer another convenient mode of transportation. Alongside options like taking a taxi, ensuring various means of changing locations are always available.
As we lack access to a car in Laos and are uneasy about driving independently due to the less structured traffic environment compared to Germany and the absence of sidewalks, driving and walking is not always a viable option. Consequently, we experimented with various transportation alternatives.
We were eager to explore the transportation system in Laos, especially given the country’s reputation for a somewhat “slow” pace—a characteristic that can be challenging for the German need for punctuality. So far, we have experimented with several options in and around Vientiane. This article serves as a valuable guide to discover all that Laos has to offer in terms of transportation. Up to this point, we have utilized ridesharing, Tuk-Tuks, the public bus, minivan bus, and the train, with the night bus still remaining on our agenda.
The streets of Laos, Vientiane …
Ridesharing
Commencing with our most frequently employed mode of transportation: Ridesharing. Ridesharing is a service that facilitates immediate one-way transport through an app. To make use of these services, a smartphone, internet connectivity, and payment options such as credit card, PayPal, or cash are required.
Initially, we made use of the Loca app. Loca stands as the largest ridesharing service in Laos and promotes eco-friendly transportation choices. They offer electric vehicles, the service operates around the clock, and the application is user-friendly. We chose to link our credit card for deposits, which appeared to be a convenient choice. Nonetheless, it is important to consider that for each credit card transaction, there are associated currency conversion fees. Additionally, the final cost is not determined until you reach your destination, and charges are based on time rather than distance. This structure can result in higher expenses, particularly during rush hours. Apart from that, Loca definitely is a good choice providing consistently friendly drivers who arrive promptly.
After some time, we transitioned to another app called inDrive. This is also a ridesharing app where you receive information about the recommended price based on the distance traveled. Subsequently, you can submit your own offer, and if it is deemed too low, the app prompts you to at least offer the minimum. Once you have entered your offer, available drivers respond with their own offers, giving you the option to accept or decline. When using inDrive, the payment is exclusively in cash, eliminating credit card fees but potentially requiring more frequent visits to ATMs. However, inDrive consistently proves to be cheaper than Loca, making it a highly recommended choice. The only disadvantage is that there are fewer drivers available on inDrive compared to Loca, so calling a car might require more patience.
Tuk-Tuk
Ridesharing proves to be an effective mode of transportation, especially in Vientiane. However, in other cities like Luang Prabang or Vang Vieng, we recommend choosing Tuk-Tuks since there are almost no drivers available on these apps. Continuing with the previously mentioned and unquestionably popular transportation choice in Southeast Asia: Tuk-Tuks.
Tuk-Tuks are three-wheeled bicycles equipped with backseats and a small roof, providing passengers with shade from the sun and some protection from rain. They are a common sight in every tourist-centric city in Laos and serve as a convenient transportation option, particularly if you are comfortable negotiating prices in person. As you stroll around, you are likely to encounter a Tuk-Tuk driver offering you a ride, and they may even be parked along streets for you to approach them at your convenience.
As previously stated, it is necessary to personally negotiate the ride prices with the driver, and this negotiation is typically based on the distance traveled. Many drivers initially quote higher prices, as it is part of their business practice. If the offered price appears unreasonable, which is most frequently the case, walking away can often prompt the driver to follow you and agree to a more reasonable rate. It is advisable to share a Tuk-Tuk with multiple people to reduce the costs as well. Embarking on a Tuk-Tuk ride is certainly a must-experience in Laos and can be quite enjoyable, despite the occasional bumps caused by damaged roads. However, we advise against using Tuk-Tuks in Vientiane, as they often charge significantly more than ridesharing options.
… the most famous …
… transportation …
… vehicle …
… in South-East-Asia …
For individuals interested in exploring an eco-friendly Tuk-Tuk alternative, we recommend considering those provided by Kokkok . Kokkok is a versatile enterprise that extends its services across various sectors, including the establishment of supermarkets throughout Vientiane. In addition to its retail presence, Kokkok provides an environmentally friendly transportation alternative through the operation of electrically powered Tuk-Tuks within the Vientiane region. These distinctive Tuk-Tuks are easily recognizable due to their modern design and vibrant orange coloration. Booking a Kokkok Tuk-Tuks is facilitated through a dedicated mobile application, which is currently exclusive to Android devices and not accessible via the Apple App Store. As both of us possess iPhones, we regrettably could not personally experience the utilization of Kokkok Tuk-Tuks. Nonetheless, testimonies from Android users suggest a seamless and efficient service provided by Kokkok in the realm of urban transportation.
The Public Bus
Embarking on our less frequently utilized mode of transportation: the public bus. The clarity of the public bus system in Vientiane is often hindered by inconspicuous bus stops. During our journey to the Buddhapark in Vientiane, we found the system to be seemingly straightforward and efficient, at least for the specific route we undertook. Navigating to the Vientiane Center, which stands next to the Vientiane Bus-Station – the primary departure point for most buses – we opted for Line 14. This particular route allowed us to board the bus and travel directly to the last station, conveniently located at the entrance of the Buddhapark. Regardless of the duration of one’s journey on the bus, the fare remains fixed at 18.000 LK, which is equivalent to less than 1 EUR, presenting a favorable offer for an approximately one-hour ride.
The published bus schedule indicates a frequency of buses every 15 minutes; however, in line with the Laotian lifestyle, one must be prepared to endure waiting times of up to 30–45 minutes if a preceding bus is not caught. Such was the case during our return journey, when we, at least, experienced a wait of approximately 45 minutes until the next bus arrived at the Buddhapark. Moreover, the route includes a stop at the Lao-Thai Friendship Bridge, a point of transit for many individuals crossing the Lao-Thai border. Our pause at this location extended for about 45 minutes, underscoring the importance of not being in a hurry when relying on the bus system in Laos.
… the Vientiane Bus Station …
… a ticket for the public bus …
… inside the public bus …
… one can sometimes ride without any other passengers …
Train
For those who prefer a more comfortable yet pricier mode of transportation, opting for the train is a viable choice. The construction of the rail connection between the Chinese province of Yunnan and the Laotian capital, Vientiane, started in 2016. The railway officially opened in December 2021, marking Laos’s first-ever true rail line (cf. Spiegel International, 2022). One has the option to either pre-book tickets online or purchase them at the train station. We opted to secure our tickets in advance through Bookaway to avoid lengthy queues at the station. However, even if you book weeks in advance, the tickets are typically issued a few days before the departure date, so it is advisable to be mentally prepared for this.
Purchasing your ticket via Bookaway comes with the benefit of a complimentary transfer from your selected location to the train station. However, it is important to be ready for potential delays from the driver, requiring you to move quickly upon reaching the train station. Despite having an online ticket, your driver will provide you with an additional ticket. Upon arrival, the unmistakable influence of China becomes apparent, as they provided a substantial loan to Laos for the implementation of this significant infrastructure project.1 The visual manifestation of China’s presence is evident in the appearance of the train station. Given the focus of this article on transportation options, the conversation about China potentially forcing Laos into dependency cannot be explored in greater detail.
… transfer to the railway station …
Upon reaching the Lao-China Railway station, we proceeded to the ticket station, where our passports and the tickets provided by our driver were examined. Following this process, we received an additional ticket for access to the station. Immediately after having our tickets verified by the staff, we underwent security checks reminiscent of airport procedures. Regrettably, Patricia had to open her luggage due to the detection of prohibited items. Both her deodorant spray and mosquito repellent spray had to be left behind as they were classified as flammable. Interestingly, Antonia happened to have the exact same mosquito repellent spray with her and did not have to surrender it, likely just a fortunate coincidence. Following the security check, you find yourself in a spacious waiting hall with numerous available seats, some small snack shops, and complimentary restrooms.
As we were running slightly behind schedule, we proceeded directly to our platform. However, before entering, your ticket undergoes another inspection. A noteworthy observation was the assignment of designated waiting areas to ensure orderly queues and prevent overcrowding. This system also guides passengers directly to their designated seats. Once we had stowed our luggage, we took a seat, anticipating a leisurely train journey. However, our tickets were subjected to another inspection. Subsequently, we thoroughly relished observing the Laotian landscape through the train windows.
While the trains do offer restroom facilities, be cautious as they do not have pottery toilets, and the ride can still be a bit shaky. They also provide the option to purchase snacks and beverages during the train journey, ensuring that even if you have not brought anything along, you can still make a purchase. During our trip to Luang Prabang, the train made a stop in Vang Vieng. The entire journey took around two hours before reaching our final destination. Just before disembarking at the train station, your ticket is checked one final time. Outside, several drivers are available to transport you to the city center in a Minivan for a cost of 40.000 LK, which is equivalent to less than 2 EUR.
… railway tickets …
… the railway station in Vientiane …
… and the departure board …
Minivan
Commencing a journey via train in Laos presents a compelling opportunity, particularly when traveling towards the destinations of Luang Prabang and Vang Vieng, both of which enjoy considerable popularity. However, it is noteworthy that opting for train travel may entail relatively higher costs compared to the prevailing Lao standards. Consequently, our consideration shifted towards exploring more economically viable alternatives for the journey to Vang Vieng. Various online booking platforms, such as 12go Asia and Bookaway, offer convenient options for securing transportation. Our preference leaned towards the second platform, primarily due to its inclusive provision of a transfer to the train station, albeit regrettably excluding transportation to the Northern Bus Terminal. Consequently, we had to combine different transportations options as ridesharing became a requisite to reach the Bus Station.
Observing the transportation landscape, it is evident that buses are predominantly favored by the local populace, in high contrast to train travel. However, recognizing that the road infrastructure in Laos is suboptimal, only the route to Vang Vieng is noted for having satisfactory conditions. Anticipating a journey marked by occasional bumps, a tempered expectation is advised for a smoother travel experience. The utilization of a Minivan, as denoted by its name, implies a limited spatial capacity, potentially rendering it less accommodating for taller individuals. The estimated duration of the journey to Vang Vieng, stipulated by “Bookaway”, approximates three hours.
Nevertheless, this temporal estimate is contingent upon factors such as traffic conditions and the frequency of stops for passenger embarkation or disembarkation. In more fortuitous circumstances, the journey may be expedited to a mere one and a half hours. Thus, variability is inherent, and one’s travel experience may be contingent upon factors beyond anticipatory control. Considering our specific situation, it is important to take into account the possibility of being seated next to substantial bags of rice, packages containing small chickens, and an assortment of diverse items.
… driving with the minivan might be an adventurous ride …
… combined with not much space …
Motorbike
Utilizing a motorbike as a mode of transportation in Laos may represent a viable option for individuals seeking an economical and flexible means to access various destinations within or outside the city. The prevalence of motorbike ownership among the Laotian populace is notably high, with citizens commonly employing this mode of transport for commuting to work and navigating throughout the urban landscape. However, it is imperative to acknowledge that the adherence to road traffic regulations in Laos appears more as a guiding principle rather than a strict observance, rendering driving on the streets potentially perilous for those lacking experience.
Additionally, given our observations of tourists sustaining severe injuries, likely resulting from accidents on the road, we opted against renting or operating a motorbike during our stay. Should one decide to pursue this mode of transportation in Laos, it is crucial to exercise an abundance of caution, adopting a defensive driving approach and anticipating unforeseen events on the road. In essence, the prevailing ethos on Laotian streets subscribes to the informal doctrine of “first come, first served,” underscoring the need for heightened awareness and adaptability when navigating the local roadways. However, if one is interested in renting a motorbike to explore Laos, it is recommended to review the following blog post “Bolaven Plateau Loop” by two former volunteers.
… and last but not least, the most important transportation vehicle of South-East-Asia.
Conclusion
In summary, there exists a range of transportation choices, each with its own set of pros and cons. Exploring different modes of transportation became a mini-adventure in itself. During our time in Laos, we could not help but observe the unique transportation landscape from my German perspective. The contrast to the (mostly) organized German transportation system was striking. While the infrastructure may not match the precision of German autobahns, the authenticity of the Laotian transport experience was undeniable. The slow-paced journeys through picturesque landscapes and the shared spaces with locals and their goods provided a glimpse into a different way of life. It was an enriching experience, showcasing the diversity and charm inherent in Laos’ transportation options.
We strongly encourage trying those that make you feel comfortable. This not only enhances your immersion in Lao culture but may also reveal sights and experiences you might have missed otherwise.
Text by A. Eiser & P. Fromkorth
Photos by A. Eiser & P. Fromkorth
Footnote:
1 The substantial Chinese loan has severely impacted Laos’ economy, contributing to a heavy recession and crippling prices for citizens, many of whom now require second and third jobs to make ends meet. Critics argue that this situation exemplifies calculated colonialism, questioning why such consequences were not foreseen during the initial negotiations for the project.
References:
Spiegel International (2022). “The Train to Dependence on China.” Retrieved from https://www.spiegel.de/international/world/laos-and-the-new-silk-road-the-train-to-dependence-on-china-a-2fc4ce72-a230-4cf9-b53c-6db649bdece8 (last accessed 15 Dec 2023).
Discovering Laos: The Hidden beauty of an often overlooked travel destination – by Antonia Eiser & Patricia Fromkorth (Team XII)
Sharing our experience of traveling in Laos
Greetings, fellow adventurers! We are Patricia and Antonia, passionate volunteers currently immersed in the vibrant tapestry of Laos through our work at the Vocational Education Development Institute (VEDI). Our journey here goes beyond the conventional, as we strive to unveil the hidden beauty of Laos, a destination often overlooked by many. Join us as we share our discoveries, from the serene landscapes to the rich cultural tapestry, offering you a glimpse into the soulful essence of this enchanting country. Come along on this exploration with us, your guides to the hidden gems of Laos!
The Lao People’s Democratic Republic is frequently underestimated as a destination in Southeast Asia. Its status as the sole landlocked country in the region may contribute to it being overlooked by many travelers. However, Laos stands out for its delectable cuisine, warm and hospitable locals, favorable climate, and captivating history. Moreover, it offers a varied landscape characterized by stunning scenery and attractions. The nation covers an approximate area of 236,800 square kilometers and has a population of 7.7 million. Despite the busy atmosphere of their capital, Vientiane, the majority of Laotians, approximately 80%, live in rural areas, primarily engaged in agriculture (cf. BBC, 2023). Laos exhibits a highly varied topography, featuring mountains, verdant valleys, the pervasive Mekong River flowing along the nation, and expanses of rice fields and dense forests. Below, we will provide additional reasons for not overlooking Laos during a Southeast Asia trip.
- Northern Laos: Luang Prabang
- Northern Laos: Vang Vieng
- Northern/Western Laos: Vientiane
- Southern Laos: Pakse/Champasak
Come with us to get an impression of what an amazing country Laos is …
Commencing in the northern region of Laos, one of its most renowned destinations is the city of Luang Prabang. Situated in the northern part of the country, Luang Prabang is a town surrounded by mountains, nestled on a peninsula formed by the Mekong and Nam Khan River. Originally known as Muang Sua and Xieng Thong, it served as the capital of the Lan Xang kingdom from the 14th to the 16th century (cf. UNESCO, n.d.). Following the establishment of the French Protectorate in 1893, it assumed the role of the royal and religious capital until 1946. The town’s charm lies in its distinctive combination of traditional Lao and colonial architecture, featuring wooden houses and stone temples. Noteworthy is Wat Xieng Thong, a temple dating back to the 16th century (ibid). Luang Prabang’s architectural diversity seamlessly blends with its natural environment, encompassing Mount Phousi, the Mekong, and Nam Khan rivers. The town’s cultural heritage is actively preserved through ceremonies, religious practices, and the incorporation of natural spaces.
Luang Prabang is perhaps best known for its stunning Kuang Si waterfall. Situated about an hour away from the city center, it can be easily reached by Tuk-Tuks. However, it is common for many people to opt for a tour organized by their hotel or hostel, a choice we would advise against due to the potential for large groups during peak tourist times. Instead, we opted to arrange our own Tuk-Tuk driver, who picked us up at 7 am. Since there were four of us, we each pitched in 100,000 LAK for our personal driver, which works out to about 4.40 EUR. He did not just drop us off at our destination; he also stuck around to make sure we got back home safely. This allowed us to arrive at the opening time of 8 am, providing a fantastic opportunity to experience the beauty of Kuang Si with minimal crowds. The admission cost for non-native visitors at Kung Si stands at approximately 20,000 Lao Kip, equivalent to roughly 1 EUR. Luckily, we were able to enjoy the extraordinary scenery undisturbed and even had the chance to swim in the captivating surroundings. Nevertheless, exploring Kuang Si during the dry season is discouraged due to the diminished water flow at the waterfalls. For additional insights regarding Kuang Si and its aesthetic appeal, individuals are advised to refer to the official website.
… if you want to see Kuang Si without many tourists …
… come early in the morning around 8am …
The city is renowned for its daily alms-giving ceremony, held each morning. Various locations in the city witness Buddhist monks walking to receive offerings, predominantly consisting of food such as sticky rice. To ensure you visit the appropriate locations, you can inquire with the staff at your hostel or hotel. They are familiar with the nearest sites and the accurate timing, as it is not entirely predictable, but one can use the dawn as a reference point. The essence of almsgiving lies in the mutual benefits between those giving and receiving alms. Monks reciprocate by offering spiritual merit for the provided food. If you wish to partake in the ceremony, it is advisable to familiarize yourself with proper conduct beforehand. This also applies if you plan to solely observe the ceremony. Key considerations include observing silently, avoiding obstruction of the monks’ path by maintaining a reasonable distance, keeping your phone on silent, dressing appropriately meaning the covering of shoulders, knees, and, for women, the concealment of cleavage, as well as refraining from using flash when taking pictures or videos.
… the Alms Giving ceremony at 5:30 am …
Following the almsgiving ceremony, you have the option to stroll through the morning market. Morning markets provide valuable insights into local culture, focusing primarily on food items such as fresh fruits, vegetables, and fish. In contrast, night markets typically offer handicraft items and souvenirs, catering to a different aspect of cultural exploration. Furthermore, one can engage in a brisk workout by climbing the stairs to Phousi Hill. From there, you can enjoy a breathtaking view of Luang Prabang. This is recommended due to the favorable morning temperature. Additionally, there are fewer people in the morning to witness the sunrise compared to the sunset. Although the sunrise was obscured by fog during our ascent, the experience was still rewarding.
On our way to…
… the foggy view from Phousi Hill at 6am in the morning …
To witness breathtaking sunsets in a more secluded setting, you have the option to reserve a Mekong River Cruise. While in Vientiane, we spotted a flyer for a sunset cruise that caught our interest. We booked the tour through a WhatsApp chat with Senglao River Cruise. Payment was made in cash the day before we set sail. The cruise started at 5 p.m. on a Friday, with everyone asked to arrive about half an hour earlier. The staff on the boat were really friendly and competent, which added to the fun atmosphere. The tour was priced at 20 USD, and encompassed a welcome drink, snacks, and traditional Lao music and performances. The duration is approximately 1 1/2 hours, offering a worthwhile experience for the cost.
Cruising along the Mekong River on a tranquil evening in Luang Prabang was nothing short of enchanting. As the sun dipped below the horizon, the sky transformed into a canvas of soft pastels. The boat gently glided past lush green riverbanks dotted with golden temples, each one illuminated in the fading light. Onboard, the atmosphere was relaxed, with fellow travelers sharing stories and marveling at the stunning scenery. This river cruise was not just a journey; it was a magical experience that captured the essence of Luang Prabang’s serene beauty and left lasting memories of a perfect evening on the Mekong.
… the boat …
… and Lao snack plate …
In addition to Luang Prabang, Vang Vieng serves as another popular destination for travelers in Laos. While Luang Prabang may be culturally more compelling, we found that Vang Vieng offers plenty of opportunities for adventurous pursuits. Vang Vieng boasts several lagoons, with the most advertised being lagoon 1 through 3. Various tourist information points facilitate the booking of tours to these lagoons, either within a group or by engaging a Tuk-Tuk driver for a personalized excursion.
During our stay in Vang Vieng, we opted to visit lagoon 2. Like the other lagoons, it provided a semblance of paradise, offering a serene retreat from the urban life experienced in Vientiane. Beyond the lagoons, activities such as cave diving, kayaking, and river tubing are also available, although we did not partake in these adventures. Another renowned attraction in Vang Vieng is the Nam Xay Viewpoint. The Nam Xay Viewpoint affords a picturesque panorama of Vang Vieng, notably showcasing its mountainous terrain. Numerous visitors opt to capture photographs atop a motorcycle strategically positioned at the viewpoint, against the backdrop of the hills. Additionally, a Lao flag is made available, frequently incorporated by tourists seeking to enhance their photographic compositions.
Regrettably, we did not visit Nam Xay due to the hot season mid November and time constraints. It is advisable to consider visiting Vang Vieng during the months of December or January, as these periods typically experience reduced temperatures. Additionally, Vang Vieng is renowned for its affordably priced hot air balloon rides, which were a particular goal for us and were successfully experienced. The cost of the ride, approximately $135 per person, stands as a remarkable bargain compared to European prices. If the opportunity arises, embarking on this adventure is highly recommended.
… visiting one …
… out of the six lagoons in Vang Vieng …
… one of our highlights in Laos …
… was the stunning view …
… we had on our hot air balloon ride …
For more details on things to do in Vang Vieng, you can refer to the blog post titled “The Vang Vieng Challenge” by Fabian Stober.
Northern/Western Laos: Vientiane
Vientiane constituted the primary location of our residence during our work at the VEDI. While we did not perceive Vientiane itself as particularly distinctive compared to the aforementioned locations, it offers a range of activities for those seeking diversion. The renowned Night Markets in Vientiane are notable, providing an opportunity to peruse and purchase souvenirs, clothing, or partake in dining experiences. The central district of the city hosts a variety of bars and restaurants, offering a delightful chance to explore diverse culinary options and enjoy vibrant nightlife. Given its proximity to the Mekong River, an idyllic suggestion is to procure some Beer Lao, leisurely sit along the riverside, and engage in pleasant conversations, an activity we indulged in multiple times.
… the Nightmarkets …
… are a must-do …
… while visiting Vientiane …
… and taste different kinds of food …
… or just take a step back …
… and enjoy some Beer Lao at the Mekong Riverside …
It is highly recommended to utilize the public bus when heading to the Buddha Park in Vientiane. (For more details on transportation in Laos, we will shortly also upload a blog post about this topic, so stay tuned!)
Buddha Park is a prominent tourist destination in Vientiane, featuring an array of statues displayed in a well kept garden. When visiting the Buddha Park in Laos, it is important to approach the religious aspects with respect and reverence. To treat religion respectfully at the Buddha Park, consider to maintain a respectful demeanor throughout your visit. Avoid loud noises, disruptive behavior, or disrespectful gestures. Dress modestly out of respect for the religious significance of the site. Avoid wearing revealing clothing or attire that may be considered inappropriate. Observe and follow any specific customs or rules set by the park or local guides. This might include removing shoes before entering certain areas or refraining from certain behaviors.
Buddha Park was created by the mystic and artist Luang Pu Bunleua Sulilat in 1958. It features over 200 sculptures, many of which are enormous in size, showcasing a blend of Buddhist and Hindu iconography. The most prominent sculpture is a massive reclining Buddha that stretches over 40 meters in length. The park’s sculptures are a mix of Buddhist and Hindu symbolism, reflecting the artist’s vision of unifying the two religions. Visitors can explore intricately designed statues of gods, demons, and animals, each representing different aspects of Buddhist or Hindu cosmology. The Buddha Park is not only a cultural landmark but also a serene and contemplative space where visitors can learn about the region’s religious traditions and enjoy the peaceful ambiance of the Mekong riverside setting. Among these statues is a climbable monument that offers a panoramic view of the park from its summit. However, exercise caution and mind your head while ascending, as the ceilings are not particularly high and could pose a risk of injury.
… take your time …
… and have a visit …
… at the Buddhapark in Vientiane …
Vientiane features two prominent malls: Vientiane Center and Parkson Mall. The Vientiane Center encompasses a cinema, bowling center, and an arcade area, fostering enjoyable evenings. English-language movies are available, yet we recommend experimenting with watching a Thai movie with English subtitles for an intriguing experience. Exploring a Lao/Thai-produced movie offers an entirely new perspective. The city also houses the Lao Textile Museum, a serene space worth dedicating a day to; detailed insights are available in a subsequent blog post written by our companion Marie Pogerth.
… take a time out and …
… watch a movie in the cinema at the Vientiane Center …
For those with an affinity for animals, numerous shelters and veterinarians welcome any assistance, even if only to play with and socialise with the animals in preparation for adoption. We personally conducted a visit to the Vimaan Suan Foundation Animal Recovery Centre, under the guidance of a Singaporean man. During our visit, we were introduced to a selection of disabled dogs and cats, including individuals affected by blindness, deafness, or physical impairments. Our host conveyed that numerous animals, following involvement in accidents, are relinquished by their owners due to cultural beliefs attributing such incidents to harbinger of ill fortune for the family. As a result, his primary objective entails facilitating the rehoming process for these animals.
Vientiane also features a variety of temples and museums, including the Pha That Luang temple, the Cope Visitor Museum and the Lao National Museum, providing rich cultural experiences. For those who are interested one can find a detailed implementation written by Team VIII in the following blog article “Cultural landmarks in Vientiane – manifestations of Lao history“.
… if you want to help out …
… at an animal shelter and cuddle with some cats: try it out …
Southern Laos: Pakse/Champasak
Our most recent travel destination encompassed the southern region of Laos, specifically Pakse and Champasak. The director of the VEDI school extended an invitation for us to accompany him on the journey to the southern part of Laos. An opportunity for which we are immensely grateful. While air travel presents a more relaxed option, given the often challenging conditions of Laotian roads, our chosen mode of transportation was by car, a 14-hour journey from Vientiane to Pakse. Alternatively, one can traverse through Thailand, a route taking only 9 hours, as per the advice of local Laotian residents, due to the better road conditions. However, visa restrictions from our side compelled us to take the road through Laos. Despite the extended travel time, this decision afforded us a unique opportunity to witness the picturesque Laotian countryside, featuring captivating views of rice fields, palm trees, and the Mekong River. Another transport option is the sleeping bus, but passengers should be prepared for a potentially bumpy ride.
Pakse is renowned for its stunning waterfalls, and we had the privilege of visiting two of them: Tad Fane and Tad Yuang. Tad Fane waterfall offers an exhilarating ziplining experience over the canyon, providing an adrenaline rush for thrill-seekers. Tad Yuang waterfall, on the other hand, captivates with its pristine natural surroundings, resembling a paradisiacal gem. The accompanying pictures aptly convey the beauty of the location. Another notable destination in Champasak, situated near the Cambodian border, is Siphandone, which translates to “4000 islands” in English. Positioned at one of the widest points of the Mekong River, the area is home to approximately 4000 small islands, accounting for the name. Our companions had previously visited Siphandone many years ago, expressing a degree of disappointment due to lower water levels that affected the overall view. Nonetheless, we appreciated the scenery and were pleased to witness Siphandone. To gain further information on activities, you may want to check out the blog post titled “Bolaven Plateau Loop,” where previous volunteers explored the southern region of Laos on bicycles.
… one of the …
… most stunning …
… places …
… we have …
… ever been to …
Our travel companions, seasoned with multiple visits to the southern region, proved invaluable, guiding us to localities that we might not have discovered independently. This included savoring delightful Lao cuisine like a breakfast rice soup of which the specific appellation eludes our memory, indulging in coffee from Pakse, which ranked among the best we have ever had, and enjoying meals in places boasting arguably the most beautiful views in Laos. Lao meals typically consist of a variety of dishes that reflect the country’s rich culinary heritage. Common elements found in Lao cuisine include sticky rice, fresh herbs and vegeatbles, different kind of fish (mostly fish out of the Mekong River), chicken, pork and of course seasoning and spices e.g. chilis.
Some of the most famous Lao dishes are Laap which is a minced meat salad typically made with chicken, pork, or fish, mixed with fresh herbs, lime juice, fish sauce, and toasted rice powder. Laap is a flavorful and aromatic dish often served with sticky rice. The word “laab” (also spelled “laap” or “larb”) in Lao means “luck” or “fortune.” This name underscores the dish’s cultural significance in Laos, where it is often associated with good luck and is traditionally prepared for celebratory events and special occasions. Tam Mak Hoong which is mostly called Papaya Salad, is a spicy salad made from shredded green papaya, tomatoes, lime juice, chili peppers, fish sauce, and sometimes fermented fish. It’s a refreshing and zesty dish commonly eaten as a side or appetizer. Lao cuisine is known for its fresh ingredients, bold flavors, and emphasis on communal dining. Meals are typically served family-style, encouraging sharing and enjoyment of multiple dishes together. The combination of aromatic herbs, spicy elements, and unique textures make Lao cuisine a delightful culinary experience.
… and there is always time for a coffee break!
In conclusion, our journey through Laos has been nothing short of a revelation, uncovering the hidden beauty of a destination often overlooked by travelers. From the tranquil temples of Luang Prabang to the adventurous landscapes of Vang Vieng and the cultural richness of Vientiane, Laos offers a unique tapestry of experiences. The warmth and hospitality of the Laotian people have left an indelible mark on our hearts, making this journey not just a physical exploration but a soulful discovery. As we reflect on the serene Mekong River, the lush landscapes, and the vibrant local culture, it becomes evident that Laos is a gem waiting to be explored. The untouched authenticity of this destination is a treasure for those seeking a genuine and immersive travel experience. So, next time you plan your adventure, consider Laos – a destination that quietly beckons with its hidden wonders and invites you to unravel its secrets.
Text by A. Eiser & P. Fromkorth
Photos by A. Eiser & P. Fromkorth
References:
BBC News. (2023, April 18). Laos country profile. BBC News. https://www.bbc.com/news/world-asia-pacific-15351898
UNESCO. (n.d.). Town of Luang Prabang. World Heritage Centre. https://whc.unesco.org/en/list/479/
We are Team XIII – The Cameroon Experience begins!
Note by the editor: This post was written in week 2 of the ASA Acaedmia project (mid-May 2024) and gives you an impression of the momentous start for the group. Watch out for their next posts on the progess of the project!
Dear Readers,
We are happy to announce that new The Cameroon Experience has started and we invite you to take part in our journey throughout 2024. To let you take part in our ASA Academia project called “Rethinking education: Decolonising internationalisation and knowledge production“, we would like to introduce ourselves and tell you a little bit more about us. Read about our team, our goals, and our hopes for this exciting experience!
In the photo you can see the members of Team XIII from right to left:
Top: Ann-Christin Neygenfind, Sandra Ngainjang Shonkeh, Bright-Mercy Ebane Ndutu; Bottom: Larissa Faiza Kongnso, Jessica Weigelmann, Theresa Oluwatobi Babatunde
About the ASA Programme
The ASA Programme is an educational and capacity-building initiative that aims to raise awareness and understanding of diverse regional and professional perspectives to address pressing global challenges. Offering seminars, projects, and support for sustainable engagement, the program provides participants – including students and young professionals from Germany and the Global South – with expertise in development policy, practical experience, and training to integrate sustainability and global justice into various aspects of their lives, whether in education, careers, or civic engagement. The overarching goal is to empower participants to effectively contribute to the implementation of the ASA Programme. It is non-profit and politically independent. It is mainly financed by grants from the Federal Ministry for Economic Cooperation and Development (BMZ). In addition, it receives funding from the majority of the federal states in Germany. It aims to contribute to the United Nations’ 2030 Agenda and achievement of the Sustainable Development Goals in education, politics, business, and society, facilitated through international collaboration and multi-stakeholder partnerships between institutions in Germany and partner countries.
About our Project
Titled “Rethinking Education: Decolonising Internationalisation and Knowledge Production,” the project brings together students and faculty from the Karlsruhe University of Education (PHKA) and the University of Yaoundé 1 in a bi-national, North-South partnership. Adopting a bi-directional approach, the student tandems critically examine colonial legacies embedded within university structures, curricula, teaching practices in both countries – and in themselves.
Beyond academic research, the teams will try out decolonial lessons in Karlsruhe schools and produce insightful content to disseminate their findings. Spearheaded by PHKA’s Professor Dr. Isabel Martin and Dr. Eric Enongene Ekembe from the University of Yaoundé 1, the project challenges the often one-sided treatment of colonialism by reflecting on the issue through both a German and Cameroonian lens.
This collaborative cross-cultural endeavor calls for urgent action to dismantle the persistent colonial influences in our own minds and in education, heralding a transformative approach to rethinking and reimagining education on a global scale.
That’s us, Team XIII!
Let us introduce ourselves to you!
Hi there!
My name is Jessica, but people call me Jessy. I am 26 years old, hold a Bachelor’s Degree in teaching English and Art, and I am currently enrolled in the Master’s program Cultural Mediation. Being able to participate in the ASA program (organized by Engagement Global) and thus the first “Cameroon Experience” is a huge honor for me, and I am looking forward to intensifying my decolonial research. I developed an interest in decolonial and postcolonial theory during my Bachelor studies but deepened my interest while working as a student helper for Prof. Martin, which allowed me to gain insights into the current research concerning decolonial English Language Teaching (ELT).
I decided to apply for the project in order to put theory into practice, as my understanding of decoloniality involves exploring theoretical concepts on a practical level. However, since only one exam and the Master’s thesis are missing for my graduation, the decision was no easy one, as I am also eager to finish my studies and start working. But the chance to work bi-directionally on a topic of my interest and also work in Yaoundé sounded too compelling to pass up. When I received the acceptance of my application, I was extremely happy and could not wait for the project to finally start.
The first project phase in Germany started on 22 April, and the other participants had to move to Karlsruhe, but for me, it was more relaxed since I already live here. The first project week started with online seminars organized by Engagement Global, including lectures and workshops covering topics such as international development cooperation, feminist development cooperation, the effects of coloniality on development studies, and many more. It helped us to find common ground and gain insights into development cooperation, which was especially interesting and new for me. In the second week, all of us are were trying to find a focus concerning what exactly to work on over the next couple of months. This has been difficult for me so far due to many reasons, one of them being the overwhelming possibilities we can work on, which sort of stresses me out as it seems like a ton of work. However, I think feeling comfortable in the uncomfortable is part of striving for decoloniality.
My task within Team XIII is not set yet, and we are still discussing what exactly we want to work on. But we will keep you updated, for sure!
Hey everyone,
I’m Theresa, a social worker currently pursuing a Master’s in Peace and Conflict Studies at Philipps University Marburg. On a theoretical level, I’ve been deeply engaged with power dynamics, inequalities, and feminist and postcolonial theories for quite some time now. Through my Bachelor’s in Social Work Plus – Migration and Globalization, followed by experience in youth work and political education, I’ve gained insights into deconstructing power structures. Right now, I’m particularly interested in exploring themes related to temporality, abolitionism, and Afrofuturism.
Outside of studying, I love getting creative. Lately, I’ve been making linocut prints with feminist and Afro-diasporic themes. When I’m not making art, you can find me outdoors— gardening, riding bikes, hiking, climbing, slacklining, or just chilling with a picnic. I recently moved to Karlsruhe for this project and I’m excited to find some great spots to watch the sunset.
My activism focuses on Afro-diasporic and BIPoC communities. In March 2023, I founded the BIPoC Feminist Literature Collective Marburg, which aims to provide a safe space for FLINTA students with experiences of racism. We organize weekly reading circles, readings, and writing workshops. Additionally, I initiated the Marburg regional group of the Initiative Schwarze Menschen Deutschlands (ISD) to connect Black people in Marburg and strengthen our collective efficacy. Through intense discussions, idea exchanges, and listening to each other’s experiences during Black Community Get Together, we mutually empower one another.
By taking part in the Cameroon-Germany Exchange, I hope to blend my activism with academic study. I’m keen to question the dominance of Western academic perspectives, reflect on my own biases, and work towards decolonization in a collaborative way. And I’m especially looking forward to learning from my colleagues from Cameroon, and together, building transnational solidarities across different perspectives and experiences.
I’m really looking forward to the internship and all the different opportunities it offers. Even though I’m not sure yet what my tasks will look like exactly, I’m very curious.
A warm welcome to those diving into this piece!
I am Bright-Mercy Ebane Ndutu, 22 years old, and a final year student from the Higher Teacher Training College Yaounde and the University of Yaounde 1 in Cameroon. I specialize in Bilingual Letters, teaching both English and French. I aspire to become an “Anglais” teacher for Francophones and a “French” teacher for Anglophones. Besides academia, I have a passion for singing, engaging in thought-provoking conversations, watching movies, and exploring diverse opportunities that push me out of my comfort zone. This helps me discover my true potential, strengths, and areas for improvement.
I’m currently participating in the ASA Academia Programme 2024, working on a 6-month project called “Rethinking Education: Decolonising Internationalization and Knowledge Production.” I’m collaborating with five other project participants, two of whom are Cameroonians, and three are from Germany. The first phase of our project already began in Karlsruhe, Germany, at the end of April and will run through till mid-July, followed by the second phase in Yaoundé, Cameroon, starting in September. It is interesting to note that all of us project participants are women, which exemplifies the saying “Educating a woman means educating the whole world.”
With a critical analysis of language use, specifically the English language and the New Englishes, we are enthusiastic about contributing to the success of the UN Agenda 2030 Sustainable Development Goals and turning them into practical realities. I believe that this experience will greatly contribute to the success of my teaching career as a secondary school teacher and equally broaden my understanding of development cooperations.
The ASA Academia Programme is an exchange initiative that promotes bi-directional learning, aiming to create a more equitable world where everyone’s opinions are valued and considered. I am particularly grateful to the ASA Team (Pioneers and Organisers) for launching this incredible initiative to transform the world positively and create a conducive environment for people of all languages, tribes, genders, and races. With our diverse perspectives, we all have unique contributions to make in our respective societies and play significant roles in global development. As Tom Robbins said, “Equality is not in regarding different things similarly, equality is in regarding different things differently.” Therefore, we are ready to learn, unlearn, and relearn pressing global issues to achieve our goals in order to propagate unity in diversity. We are optimistic and hopeful for the best.
Cheers!
Hello Everybody,
I am Kongnso Larissa Faiza, and I am 24 years old, born and raised in Dumbu, Cameroon. I obtained my Bachelor´s Degree at the University of Yaoundé 1. I am currently a student teacher at the Higher Teacher Training College in Yaoundé. My love for reading, watching movies, cooking, travelling, and trying new things has built a deep appreciation for diverse cultures, perspectives, and narratives, which I love to share and discuss in social settings. My commitment to learning and my desire to connect with people from diverse backgrounds has led me to participate in the ASA program. I believe the program provides an ideal platform for gaining multicultural knowledge, implementing bi-directional learning, and fostering meaningful personal development. To me, the ASA program is aimed at implementing the SDGs of the United Nations’ Agenda 2030. Our project titled “Rethinking Education: Decolonising Internationalisation and knowledge production” is directly concerned with SDG number 4 which is Quality Education, making me think of new ways of developing new ways of learning and producing new knowledge. My participation in the ASA program reflects my commitment to learning, my passion for connecting with diverse cultures.
Hi there,
my name is Ann-Christin, I am 25 years old, and I am currently studying International Studies/Peace and Conflict Studies at the Universities in Frankfurt and Darmstadt. In my studies I mainly focus on development cooperation and its inherited power structures and colonial legacy. In these disciplines, language is often considered a “neutral” means. But it is not: it can shape worldviews, perceptions and perpetuate power imbalances – especially English with its colonial and imperialistic legacy. Language is always power. This is why it is a huge honor for me to take part in this project about the decolonization of language and language awareness. It is a great opportunity to not only learn about decolonial approaches but realize them in cooperation with our Cameroonian partners. I am really looking forward to that!
During my studies I was working in a project about the role of school in the integration process for refugee children. We visited the schooling opportunities in refugee camps and conducted interviews with the teachers and parents. All of them highlighted the importance of education and language as the key for a fulfilled future. This made me more interested, and I started tutoring refugee children myself. In doing so I became well aware of the shortcomings of schoolbooks: they emphasize Euro-Anglo-centric and neo-colonial perspectives. This inspired me for my work in this project together with my Cameroonian tandem. We want to review English school books and analyze how they perpetuate colonial ways of thinking and teach English from a very Euro-Anglo-centric-based point of view.
But first of all, it is very important for me to decolonize my own mind and to challenge my own views again and again. So let us start to learn to unlearn and relearn!
Hi!
I’m called Shonkeh Sandra Ngainjang, I’m 21 years old and I’m a Cameroonian. I’m currently in the Higher Teacher’s Training College Bertoua, in the first cycle where I’ll obtain my DIPES 1 (Diplôme de Professeur de l’Enseignement Secondaire premier grade) this year in October. I’m training to become an English Language teacher in secondary schools. I’m excited to connect and share some details about myself. The first thing about me I like to share is you will always find me head bent over a novel, no matter the genre, I will read it. And I enjoy doing this because it goes in line with what I study in school. However, I do enjoy doing other things, such as being aware and learning new things and ways of living, watching movies, especially horror, talking with friends, going out to dance with friends and I do admire the basketball sport, I’ve always found it interesting.
Being part of the ASA program, I think that the program offers a perfect opportunity to acquire multicultural understanding, facilitate two-way learning, and promote significant personal growth. For me, the ASA initiative is geared towards advancing the Sustainable Development Goals.
Letter from Cameroon (no. 2) by Larissa Faiza Kongnso
Dear Readers,
I am Larissa Faiza Kongnso, a student teacher from Higher Teacher Training College in Yaoundé Cameroon, which is a training ground for those who aspire to become teachers. I am taking part in the ASA Academia project, Rethinking education: Decolonising internationalisation and knowledge production 2024. In this project, our aim is to decolonise our minds, discover new ways of knowledge production, challenge existing stereotypes and create awareness about the different power imbalances that clouds the society. I am writing to tell you how I became part of this project. I would also like to express my enthusiasm and expectations about my trip and short stay in Germany and share my first impressions of Karlsruhe with you.
There was a conference at the Higher Teacher Training College in Cameroon on November 22, 2023, organised by Dr. Ekembe and chaired by Prof. Dr. Isabel Martin, Prof.Dr. Nkemleke,which I attended. During this conference, many lecturers like Professor Neba, Professor Dasi, Professor Kusi, Professor Angwa, Dr Maiwong from the Training College Yaoundé presented their research about decolonising English Language Teaching systems in captivating ways. Afterwards, students who became interested could apply for the ASA Academia exchange program. The requirements to apply, such as being able to work under pressure scared me a little but I took it as a challenge. My motivation to take part in this project was mainly to interact and exchange ideas with the other project members (bi-directional learning system). Upon my return to Cameroon, I will share my experience and insights gained during the project phase through workshops, seminars, and conferences.
We are six participants: three from Cameroon and three from Germany. This is interesting because we come from diverse backgrounds. I think this project is important because it helps connect people with common interests from diverse cultural backgrounds, which is crucial since the world is a global village.
Despite the undulating internet network, I decided to apply. Fortunately, in the end, I made it to the shortlist. I was really happy and waiting for more good news from the team. And then, I received an email from the German program organizer: Engagement Global. They sent a link to complete the ASA registration form. In this email conversation, I got to know my contact person – Miroslava (Mirka) Gaborova . At this point, I had to start preparing my travelling documents and read the ASA guidelines for participants 2024.
That’s me, Faiza….
….and here again, me.
I have had so much fun up until now. Just the thought of traveling to Germany has always given me butterflies in my belly. Germany has always captivated me with its extensive farming systems in my Geography lessons in secondary school. And behold, the landscapes are not different from what I expected as I can see asparagus and strawberry fields, especially in Bruchsal. With regard to education, Germany is known to be a ground for quality education, especially with scholarship programs offered by DAAD, Humboldt research fellowship, etc., which aim to achieve Goal #4 of the 17 Sustainable Development Goals of the United Nations Agenda for 2030. These goals are relevant to me, because they serve as a guide to check the development of countries, especially in terms of sustainability.
Cameroon, my home country, has two official languages – English and French – and about two hundred local languages, making the country linguistically diverse. Cameroon is also blessed with rich natural touristic sites like Reunification_Monument in Yaounde, Mount Cameroon, Twin Lake, Museums, Kribi Waterfalls.
The culinary tradition in Cameroon is diverse, with various dishes representing the country’s rich culture. Some well known dishes in Cameroon are “waterfufu and eru“, waterfufu is made from cassava and eru is a vegetable cooked with beef, cow skin, and smoked fish. “Fufu and njamanjama with kahti kahti“, fufu is made from maize flour and eaten with njama njama (huckelberry), and khati khati (roasted chicken). “Ndole“ which is a meal from peanut butter, green vegetables commonly called “bitter leaf“, spices, beef or fish, to be eaten with plantains, potatoes or yam. Personally, I enjoy eating “fufu and njamanjama with kahti khati” because it is a meal from my place of origin. Therefore, I always feel a connection to my roots while savouring it. Regarding traditional dances, there are numerous dances and traditional regalia such as “toghu“, “kaba ngondo“, “boubou“. All these reflect the diverse heritage of the Cameroonian people.
Agriculture is Cameroon’s backbone. There is cattle rearing, cultivation of rice, maize, millet, vegetables, fruits. Sports is very important and diverse as well. Cameroon has a whole lot of sporting activities like football, volleyball, gymnastics, judo, etc. And whenever someone hears “Samuel Eto’o Fils“, Cameroon comes to mind.
I think these background facts about Cameroon are helpful in decolonising and diversifying our minds. Moreso, I am writing to you, so you can get to know Cameroon’s culture through reading.
This is the Higher Teacher Training College in Yaounde…
… and this picture shows our basketball field….
…and this is our lovely Seme Beach!
I’ve heard a lot about how efficient, clean, and orderly German cities are, and I have seen it for myself. I expected German people to be nice, accepting, and open-minded to international students like me. My first impressions of Karlsruhe confirmed that, they are even more than I had imagined. I am excited to have immersed myself in their way of life. Nevertheless, I had to get used to some unfamiliar aspects.
Starting from the temperature which was one of my first impressions of Karlsruhe. It was really strange how cold (six degrees and sometimes zero degrees at night) it was. That was my first time to experience that. It was really too cold for me for the first week but after the second week, I was already adapting to the temperature differences in Germany and Cameroon. Additionally, I also noticed that, at 9 pm in Germany, it is still daylight. Meanwhile in Cameroon, at 6 pm, everywhere is already engulfed in darkness. This was really fascinating to me.
Another cultural shock was the way people in Germany love and cherish pets, especially dogs. Many people own a pet or two, and love galivanting around with the pets. This is so unusual in Cameroon, that is why I was scared of pets at the beginning. However, I soon realised that the pets are harmless and very friendly.
Furthermore, I still struggle with the train and tram system. There are just so many and it is difficult to master them. Mostly because to me, the streets are so much alike that I am likely to confuse one for another.
Nevertheless, my first impressions of life in Karlsruhe and at the university are very positive. So far in Germany, I have had a good time at PH Karlsruhe. We have been attending some courses like “Decolonial Praxis” offered by Prof.Dr. Isabel Martin. In this course, the aim is to turn decolonial theory into practice, particularly via Critical Language Awareness as future English teachers. We aim to deconstruct course books, the enrollment process or module handbooks. Another course is “Decolonial English Languge Teaching”, which also focuses on decolonising the English language teaching system, different ideas on knowledge production and having exchanges with the other students. All in all, we are looking at how our thinking and actions influenced by colonialism can be decolonised through bi-directional exchange.
Furthermore, I have tried different types of German cuisine like: pretzel, döner, asparagus and ham with creamy sauce, schnitzel, aperol spritz, strawberry cheese cake, iced tea, apple cake, mashed potatoes with spinach, strawberries and much more. I have visited places like Heidelberg, Stuttgart, a Lake in Forst. To add to my first impressions, I have gone to a concert in Karlsruhe, played beer pong and had bicycle training. I also attended cultural activities like singing and theatrical performances. That has added even more fun to my stay in Germany so far.
I am grateful to the ASA team for bringing such opportunities. I’ll keep you in the loop about my activities and experiences in Germany.
With warm greetings,
Larissa Faiza Kongnso
Text by: Larissa Faiza Kongnso
Photos by: Nsom Randol Ankiambom, Kwalar Larissa Njuh, Dr. Nicole Bachor-Pfeff, Sandra Ngainjang Shonkeh, Bright-Mercy Ebane Ndutu
First Impressions – by Erasmus+ student Chansamone Senxayyachak
Dear Readers,
Before sharing my first impressions of Germany, let me introduce myself. My name is Chansamone Senxayyachak, but you can call me “Em” or “Am” for short. I am 21 years old. I am currently studying for a bachelor’s degree in English at Savannakhet University, Laos. This is my first blog post on the Laos Experience blog. I am very pleased to be a part of this community. I am delighted to have been chosen as one of two students to study for the summer semester at Karlsruhe University of Education, also known as Pädagogische Hochschule Karlsruhe in Karlsruhe, Germany, with support from the Erasmus+ KA107 program and Prof. Dr. Isabel Martin.
I have always wanted to live and study abroad since I have always thought that going overseas to study will provide me access to extra alternatives and opportunities, different points of view, knowledge, and the chance to experience more facets of life. So I have worked really hard to figure out how to make that happen because I believe that the harder I work, the more opportunities I get. Now that I have the amazing opportunity to study in Germany, I am overwhelmed and feel like I have reached my greatest dreams. I will take advantage of this chance for growth as well as becoming the best version of myself. Some of the instructors from Savannakhet University had already arrived here through Erasmus+ Mobility before I did.
My flights
It was my first time flying and being away from my parents. Mr. Somchai (the other student that was selected to study at Pädagogische Hochschule Karlsruhe) and I flew from Vientiane, Laos to Hanoi, Vietnam. Then we changed planes from Hanoi airport to Frankfurt. Experiencing my first lengthy flights, my first journey abroad, and significant time away from my family, I felt a mix of excitement and anxiety. In addition, I was anxious about any possible issues with my passport and visa, but happily, everything went off without any problems.
My first week
I first arrived in Frankfurt on March 1, 2024. This is my first time in Europe, and the temperature was extremely cold. I was happy and uneasy at the same time. I was a little confused about the German train system because I had never taken a train before and had to take one from Frankfurt to Karlsruhe. Fortunately, most Germans speak English, so Mr. Somchai and I asked someone at the train station about the train that was currently heading to Karlsruhe. The thing I appreciate most about Germans is that they are kind, friendly, and willing to help.
After that, it took us about an hour to get to Karlsruhe by train. When I heard the announcement that we were arriving at Karlsruhe Hauptbahnhof (the main train station), my heart skipped a beat. My “buddy” Hanna Joy Müller (an international student assistant sent by the international office) was waiting for me there.
She showed me around the Karlsruhe University of Education, and then took me to my dorm. After arriving at my room, we went to a store close to my dormitory. She showed me where to get food and drinks, and she bought me a pretzel (a baked good typically twisted like a knot), which was my first taste of German cuisine. She took me to the Karlsruhe Palace and the city center in the evening of my first day. I was really surprised by these locations, as I had never seen such amazing sights before. We had a great time cooking dinner at her apartment, after we bought some groceries and my German SIM card.
She provided me with nearly everything, including helping me to open a German bank account, showing me where to buy clothes, where to get Asian ingredients, and other important things for my first few weeks in Germany. Hanna, thank you very much!
During my first two days here, I walked all around this amazing city. I had a good trip and visited new locations and people, but I also had some jet lag. On my first night, I went to bed at 9:00 p.m. because Laos is five hours ahead of Germany in terms of time, which explained why I was so tired. In addition, the weather in Germany was very cold, which was quite different from Laos, where I am from. But since I enjoy winter a lot, that wasn’t at all a problem for me.
March 4th, 2024, was my first day of university, My buddy took me to the international office for my registration. That day, I met exchange students that came from different countries, such as Israel, Ukraine, and South Korea. We explored the different buildings and rooms in the Karlsruhe University of Education with the assistance of the international club.
We have to take German language courses. I started studying German for the first time in my first session. I have two wonderful, compassionate teachers. Since I’ll be spending six months in Germany, knowing a little bit of German is essential for greeting people and buying food and drinks. For me, the most important thing is knowing numbers. I would say that I enjoyed learning German numbers because they are simple to understand, and they are also really helpful when I go to grocery shops. Furthermore, I truly value the way the teachers teach. They use acting to help me and my classmates understand, and they rarely ever speak in English in German classes.
After a month
It was time to choose courses. I truly enjoy Karlsruhe University of Education’s educational program since it allows me to register for courses that interest me by emailing the lecturers. I love the university’s study management system Stud.IP because it makes everything simple to discover, including course material. Instructors post their lecture material, the syllabus, links, Forum questions, pre-activities for preparing sessions, and much more on Stud.IP so that students can access the information before any given session. In order to register on the university’s management system, each student receives their own PH-systems email address provided by the university.
On April 15, 2024, the regular lectures began. I chose four courses in the English Department, but I attend six because exchange students also take the “German language” and “Germany Today” courses. The courses I chose are “Linguistics for the Classroom (LFC)”, “Global Englishes and Global Citizenships Education”, and “Planning and Designing Lessons for Primary and Secondary Classrooms (PDL)”. I took those courses because I enjoy teaching and since I have never studied teaching before. So far, I have studied with 6 lecturers, and they are very friendly. I have met a lot of new friends from various classes. They are friendly, willing to help, and eager to answer any questions I may have. I also have friends at other universities, such as Karlsruhe University of Applied Sciences (HKA).
Trips
My first trip in Germany was to Turmberg (a hill located in Durlach, a suburb of Karlsruhe), where I went with friends, exchange students, and the international club. Turmberg is such a magnificent hill. When we got to the top, I was amazed of the view of the entire city below.
Following that, we travelled to Heidelberg. Unfortunately, it was freezing and raining that day, but the city is incredibly beautiful. I particularly adore Heidelberg because it has a large, gorgeous mountain, a charming old town, and a wonderful bridge—such a great combination. After it rained, the city was even more lovely because of the stunning sky.
The third journey took us to Stuttgart, and we went to the Porsche Museum, where I got to see a variety of cars. It was my first time visiting a car museum, and it was a great experience since I had never visited a car museum before. Later, I took advantage of the beautiful weather to tour the city. That day left me feeling both exhausted and really happy.
The latest journey was to Ludwigsburg, where we toured the inside of the Ludwigsburg palace. The palace is really beautiful and has a fascinating history. The city center of Ludwigsburg is also extremely lovely. I enjoy visiting new places and taking pictures of breathtaking scenery. These places offered me amazing scenery as well as a variety of new experiences, friends, and perspectives.
What I love about Germany so far
As of this writing, I have been in Germany for two months, which means that I had to leave my comfort zone for the first time. Living alone in a place I have never been to before, where I do not speak the language fluently, has taught me how to get by. However, I always tell myself, “you have to be better than you were yesterday.”
Fortunately, the majority of Germans are friendly and willing to lend a hand, and they are also punctual. In addition, Germany has excellent transportation systems, which I truly adore. Travelers may take trains to neighboring countries like France, Switzerland, the Netherlands, and so forth. Waste separation is one of the reasons I adore Germany. It is a wonderful idea that every country ought to start. And I have no doubt why Germany is so clean. Germany has laws governing street and road crossing, polite driving, respect for one another, safe crossing, and a high number of visitors from around the globe who wish to visit the country.
I am overjoyed to have the opportunity to live here for six months, during which time I will be able to figure out which experiences were good and which were terrible by the age of 21. This is a once-in-a-lifetime chance that I want to make the most of and share with others back home, including my family, friends, and teachers who have always supported me no matter what.
After a long time, I would like to thank the Erasmus+ program, Prof. Dr. Isabel Martin, the international relations team at Savanakhet University, the Karlsruhe University of Education, and Savannakhet University for giving me a memorable and valuable opportunity to see and experience a new world. I learned a lot of new things, and I have seen a lot of things that I had never seen in my home country, such as the German education system, excellent transportation, and different ways of life. Furthermore, I have learned many things about living abroad that I had long wanted to learn, including how to solve some problems on my own and gain personal insight from spending time alone.
I firmly believe that those experiences will benefit myself and others in the future. I truly want to share my experiences abroad with my friends and family as much as I can because I would like them to know how wide the world is. And if at all possible, I also want to use the knowledge I’ve gained from the courses I’ve been taking to help my community by doing as much English teaching as I can.
Finally, I would like to say that “I am living my dream life.”
“The Cameroon Experience” begins with a “Letter from Cameroon” by Bright-Mercy Ebane Ndutu
“Bi-directional decoloniality through systems interaction” – a new tandem-research project by Prof. Dr. Isabel Martin (University of Education Karlsruhe, Germany)
& Dr. Eric Enongene Ekembe (University of Yaoundé 1, Cameroon), April-December 2024
Editor’s note: Our new bi-directional decolonial praxis project is about to start! In my last post, I published the Call for Applications for stipends for Cameroonian students to participate in our project “Rethinking education: decolonising internationalisation and knowledge production” within the ASA Academia global format programme of Engagement Global (funded by the German Ministry of Economic Cooperation and Development). We received a good number of applications, made a shortlist, and invited the shortlisted candidates for an interview. The female invitees showed up to their interviews, and 3 of them were selected and soon after accepted the scholarships.
They fly out to Germany this evening and will work at the University of Education Karlsruhe until 17 July. The results of their/our joint work will be presented at the 30th Anniversary Congress of “ALA” (Association for Language Awareness), which our university will host, on 9 July.
Their tandem-partners, three German students who won the same scholarships a few weeks later, will return the research-tandem visit from September to December 2024 and work with them at the University of Yaoundé 1 in Cameroon.
Enjoy the first “Letter from Cameroon”!
Letter from Cameroon
Hello there! My name is Bright-Mercy Ebane Ndutu, and I’m a final year student in the first cycle of the Higher Teacher Training College Yaounde (ENS), as well as a final year Bachelor’s degree student at the University of Yaoundé, majoring in Bilingual Letters.
ENS Logo
ENS
I’m thrilled to connect with you and share a bit about myself. When I’m not immersed in my studies, you’ll often find me indulging in my passions, such as singing, engaging in thought-provoking conversations, watching movies, staying updated with the latest news, and exploring new opportunities that come my way. I believe in the power of education, and I’m dedicated to expanding my knowledge and skills to become a proficient educator. I’m eager to learn, grow, and make meaningful connections, and I’m excited about the possibilities that lie ahead.
Bright-Mercy Ebane Ndutu
Since Prof. Isabel Martin announced the “ASA Academia” Programme in my class in November 2023 when she was in Yaoundé on her DAAD “Fact-Finding Mission”, I was filled with excitement. However, the fear of the unknown gripped my heart. Completing my internship, which would count towards my end of year evaluation, and continuing my Bachelor’s degree program at the faculty made me unsure if I should forfeit my second semester. The saying “you can’t eat your cake and have it” echoed in my mind, reminding me of the need for a scale of preference in life, as some opportunities may never be retrieved.
My Year 3 batch…
…celebrating our finishing…
… in peach outfits!
Just when I was contemplating these thoughts, Dr. Eric Ekembe entered the picture and asked if I had applied for the project, a day before the submission deadline. I confessed that I had not. Despite my fear that my late submission might not be considered, he encouraged me to give it a try. I remain grateful for that. Challenging myself, I took a leap of faith, submitted my application, and anxiously waited for a reply within two days for shortlisted candidates.
The days passed, and I almost gave up hope, preparing myself for the worst while hoping for the best. It was on the fourth day after submission that I received an email notifying me that I had been selected as one of the shortlisted candidates. The rush of excitement and flood of nervousness flooded over me, knowing that I had to face an online interview on the same day. Trusting God, I pondered on what to say. During the interview, conducted by Professor Isabel Martin, Dr. Eric Ekembe, and Professor Kusi, I felt the tension but managed to answer their questions to the best of my ability. A few minutes after the interview, I received the wonderful news that I had been chosen as one of the participants of the project. My joy at that moment was indescribable.
The real application process then commenced, demanding numerous write-ups that consumed a significant amount of my time. I willingly made the sacrifice, knowing that the days ahead held promise and potential. The visa application process then arrived, and with prayers and hope, everything went smoothly, further amplifying the sense of promise and excitement.
About to leave…
… my home…
… for the first time
Meanwwhile, during this time that I have been networking with the Germans, I have come to appreciate their exceptional qualities. One prominent characteristic is their remarkable efficiency and meticulousness in everything they do. Professor Isabel Martin, for instance, serves as a practical example of this trait. She demonstrates great attention to detail and ensures that all the necessary information regarding our project is supplied promptly.
The Germans also have a strong commitment to punctuality. Whether it’s sending documents or meeting deadlines, the team consistently adheres to timelines. Professor Isabel Martin from PH Karlsruhe, Ms. Mirka Gaborova who happens to be my contact person from Engagement Global, as well as Ms. Zynthia Masra, and others exemplify this aspect with their consistent adherence to punctuality.
Furthermore, the German team has shown an unwavering willingness to help. I have been impressed by the team’s overall attitude, but I was particularly touched by Ms Sarah’s warm and accommodating demeanor when I needed assistance logging into my PH account. Her hospitality and “ready to serve” attitude were truly remarkable. Sarah happens to be Professor Isabel Martin’s student helper. This indeed proves that like attracts like.
Additionally, I cannot overlook the exceptional hospitality extended to me by Prof. Martin’s colleague from the German Department, Dr. Nicole Bachor-Pfeff and her husband, Mr. Mike. They offered to house and look after me in the first two weeks after my arrival in Germany before we move into our furnished flat in town which Prof. Martin organised, to ease immersion.
Even before I had the opportunity to travel, they made me feel at home and welcomed in an online meeting. This demonstrated their genuine warmth and their active commitment to fighting against racism. Their gestures have not only made a positive impact on me but have also dispelled any apprehensions I may have had about racism towards individuals of different races.
Overall, my experiences with the German team have been overwhelmingly positive. Their efficiency, punctuality, willingness to help, and warm hospitality have left a lasting impression on me. I am filled with excitement and optimism as I embark on the ASA Programme journey with the best hopes and expectations. I am grateful for the opportunity to collaborate with such a dedicated and welcoming team, and I look forward to the transformative experiences that lie ahead.
So far, one valuable lesson has become evident: “Talent wins games but teamwork and intelligence win championships,” as aptly stated by Michael Jordan. I am grateful for the opportunity and ready to embrace teamwork, intelligence, and the future successes that await us all in the ASA Programme this year and in the years to come.
Thank you for reading!
An Afternoon at the Lao Textile Museum – by Marie Pogerth (Team XII)
Exploring the Vibrant World of Lao Textiles at the Museum
Ever since I was little, I have been fascinated by fashion and the handiwork that comes with it. For me, it has always been part of my identity to express my personality through my choice of clothing; what styles I wear and the ones I do not wear – and why. As for fashion as an artform, silk obviously is worth to take a closer look at: the many steps required in the production process, the cultural heritage, and influence it has on Asian and especially Lao culture make it more than just a fabric or an expensive piece of clothing.
Therfore, there were many reasons why a visit to the Lao Textile Museum was on my To-Do-List as soon the first members of Team XII got their measurements taken for a custom-made Sinh. A few days after Patricia and Antonia told me about this, we headed off for a visit at the Lao Textile Museum, Vientiane. Here is the story.
Not only were we excited about the museum itself – the rainy Sunday afternoon just asked for a trip to the museum – but also for the tie dye1 class we signed up for, which is also offered by the Lao Textile Museum. Apart from some DIY (do it yourself) attempts years ago at children’s birthday parties, all of us were absolute beginners.
When we arrived at the place in Chantabouly District, north of the city center, we immediately were drawn in by the space. The museum’s grounds are not large but yet feel spacious and – as we called it – at peace. Bamboo and huge palm trees, frangipani blossoms everywhere, and the green lawn leading up to the three wooden buildings made it seem more like a spa than a museum. The local at the ticket counter greeted us in the typical warm Lao fashion and led us to an open, airy space (the Indigo Studio) where we met our two tie-dye instructors.
Here you can see the Lao Textile Museum…
… and this is …
… where the magic happens …
Indigo dye
The first part of our tie-dye class was a brief introduction on how the actual dye is made. The traditional process consists of five steps:
- Leaves of the indigo plant are put into a ceramic barrel. Water is added, the leaves sit for 24 hours. Fermentation starts, and the water starts turning into a blue/greenish color.
- The bundles of leaves are taken out, calcium hydroxide, Ca(OH)2, is added.
- Now, the mixture needs to oxidize: Using a bowl, it is getting poured in and out of the barrel for about 30 minutes. Due to the oxidation, the liquid turns blue.
- An indigo-colored foam floats on top of the barrel. To create the indigo paste used for dyeing, the foam is collected. Together with the precipitated bits which sank down overnight, it is pressed through a cotton cloth. The smooth paste can be stored up or used for dyeing.
- The paste gets mixed with water and ashes. It needs to get stirred regularly in order to keep the fermentation process going (see video!)
This barrel of indigo dye can be used for up to 10 years!
After having learned about the chemical process behind the dye itself, Antonia and Patricia decided to dye a scarf and my plan was to create a T-Shirt. We were explained how to fold and form our piece into small packages by our instructor by using rubber bands and/or little stones – depending on the pattern you want to create, there are thousands of ways to do so. In Antonia’s words “I have no idea what I’m doing, I’m just hoping it turns out okay”, Patricia and I followed this motto.
Now, the actual dying would take place. Therefore, the pieces got soaked in fresh water first. We all slipped into some nice aprons, put on some rubber gloves, and got to work. And with work, I mean a proper triceps training: Each of us sat behind one of the huge dye barrels and squeezed their cotton package for about 20 minutes in the blue/greenish mixture. Patricia and Antonia were quickly reminded of their last laundry session at the VEDI apartment, I got reminded of my non-existent arm muscles (and learned to appreciate the washing machine at Sunshine School on a whole new level).
As the still wrapped and tied up bundles were put on a bamboo stick for the cotton to absorb the dye, we were surprised by a cup of hot pea flower tea. It was served with a piece of lime, which caused the natural blue tea to turn purple as you squeezed it in. This was when I realized everything in this place was not only about textiles and fabrics, but also about the colours of nature.
… we got butterfly pea tea while we were waiting …
Afterwards, we got to the final part of our tie-dye class: the leftover dye needed to get washed out. Therefore, several big pots filled with fresh water had been prepared. Some more squeezing and massaging was required before we finally took off the rubber bands and unfolded the two scarves and the shirt. We got a first look at our creations and, against our expectations, were surprised by the outcomes – in a good way!
… for our clothes to dry …
While waiting for them to dry (spoiler alert: of course 82% humidity did not work in our favour, they were still dripping wet when we went home two hours later), we strolled around the museum2 and learned about traditional Lao fabrics; most importantly, silk.
Learning about silk
In a lot of detail, this section of the museum explained the process how silk is produced using the cocoons of the silkworm larvae in its metamorphosis into a silk moth. After the silk of the cocoons has been collected, spun, and dyed, it is used for weaving traditional Lao garments like the Sinh, Salon (the traditional Lao costume for men) or scarves. The museum exhibits several weaving chairs, which give you a glimpse of how much work goes into this craft traditionally carried out by women. This was also experienced by Lena of Team III whose story of her experience of a weaving class in Luang Prabang you can read here.
The art of weaving is traditionally acquired by girls and handed down by their mothers and grandmothers. They not only learn a life skill which will allow them to earn money in the future and make them financially more independent. Learning to weave is also a tradition that preserves culture, since tales, proverbs and beliefs are being passed on from one generation to the next: both orally and through the hundreds of patterns that are woven into the silk or cotton, all of which tell a different story. Thus, these women become co-authors of Lao culture. However, the blurring of Lao ethnic groups as well as commercialization have caused changes in motifs and designs, specific pieces like head or shoulder cloths that were once part of a Lao woman’s daily wardrobe are now used for ceremonial or official occasions only.
An initiative working against this process in order to sustain these traditions is Her Works – a business led by women in Vientiane with the sole purpose of unveiling “the beauty and delicacy of the art and handicraft works of the lesser-known ethnic minority groups” (HerWoks, 2023) of Laos. Their flagship store in Vientiane sells shoes, accessoires and clothing made by women of ethnic minority groups to promote their economic growth in rural areas, guranteeing fair salaries and environmentally friendly and natural materials and processes.
… so we also explored …
… the Lao Textile Museum.
The exhibition on the upper level of the building explained, among other things, the meaning of the various details woven into the different fabrics like elephants, deer, or tigers, but more interestingly how weaving has always been and still is closely linked to the daily life (not only) of Lao ethnic groups. In an interview Ms Khamsee Thanbounhueang, a teacher-tandem partner at Ban Phang Heng Lower Secondary School, explains to Maleen and Natalie from Team VII about her very own weavings at home, with a weaving chair built by her father.
The museum also explained that “in some ethnic groups, when an elderly member of the household died, no weaving is observed for months. (…) Weaving and other practices are also not practiced [at] the Buddhist holy day that is the last day of lunar [New Moon]. (…) The majority of ethnic Lao would not weave, reel or spin silk thread, or go into the forest to find food” (Lao Textile Museum, 2023).
More detailed information on the art of weaving and its countless motifs and patterns can be found in A. Kummetz’ Lao Weaving as Cultural Heritage (Team V).
We also learned that it is forbidden to talk ill of someone whenever a new batch of indigo color is being prepared, as it is believed that the dye would smell bad and will be spoiled. And: Menstruating women should rather not dye fabrics since the fabric would turn red.
In Laos, silk is considered as the fabric of friendship. The Lao National Museum explains it like this:
“[People] are likely to share the same aspirations: wanting peace, hating death by war. All want to have a good life, wealth, and to be free from poverty. They rather coexist in peace and enjoy mutual friendship. This theme of human’s aspiration is depicted on Lao silk fabrics” (ibid.).
Lao textiles and fabrics are a symbol for friendship, womanhood, and a connection to nature. It is fascinating to me, how fashion, everywhere in the world, holds such a symbolic place in the heart of any culture: How it evolves with and around it, creates jobs, passes on values and is as individual as the person who gets to wear it (just like Antonia and Patricia who now proudly wear their Sinhs as teachers at the VEDI). At Sunshine School, I was given the freedom to wear what I feel comfortable in, without any pressure of having to adapt to local traditions. I leave the Lao textiles to my female colleagues (simply because skirts have just never been my style) and we have fun exchanging ideas and appreciation for fashion in between classes – which is what I have always enjoyed most: finding that you and other cultures, especially women of those other cultures, have more things in common than you might think.
Outlook
While I genuinly enjoyed learning about all the steps required to produce natural silk, there was one thing I could not get my mind off after my visit to the museum: The explanatory sign, which described how exactly silk is produced, only explained how the caterpillars’ cocoons are used to spin the silk. However, there was no mention of what happens to the animals inside the cocoon, which made me think. I went online and learned that the silk production is actually harmful to the silk moths, that the worms and caterpillars do feel pain, and a lot of them die within the harvesting process. If you are interested in this and the ethical reasoning of animal rights’ protectors, check this website. This is why I personally would not wear natural silk, since it does not represent my ethical values. I had and still have to come to terms with the fact that there will always be issues I simply cannot look past in order to decolonize my mind. I was confronted with my pro-animal welfare mindset in Laos many times. I had to learn that this mindset stems from my (Western) luxury of having the choice to actively decide for the wellbeing of an animal over concerns of traditional customs or economic profit and is not “superior” per se. My German upper-middle-class upbringing and privileged educational background planted the seed for those values, enabled them to grow and take roots which I now cannot or do not want to shake off. With this realization, I have met my first boundary when it comes to decolonizing myself and letting go of my binary judgement.
However, I warmly recommend a visit to the Lao Textile Museum to everyone. The green space calms you down from the busy streets in the city center and the meditative character of their tie-dye class gives you a chance to slow down. And, as for me, it initiated a major thought process within my individual journey of decolonizing myself.
Text & photos by M. Pogerth
Notes
1 “Tie-dye” is called “tie-die” because parts of the fabric are tied off in seperate parts to create a unique pattern. Orginally, this is done by using cotton thread; however, we used rubber bands to do so.
2 Our tie-dye class took place on the grounds of the Lao Textile Museum. The exhibition part of the place was in different buildings than where our handiwork was taking place.
References
Kummetz, Ariane (2018). Lao weaving as cultural heritage – a cross-curricular storytelling project for primary school. 117 pp., with Appendix: Glossary, Didactic material, interviews 26 pp. (summary forthcoming in new series “Language education and global citizenship“, 2019)
The Lao Textile Museum, 2023
Ban Nongtha-tai, Chanthabouly District, Vientiane, Lao P.D.R.
Websites
https://laotextilemuseum2003.weebly.com/
https://www.herworks.la/
https://www.al.org.au/is-silk-ethical#gsc.tab=0
New in 2024: “TheCameroonianExperience” starts with decolonial student-tandem work in “ASA Academia global format” project – application deadline 19.1.2024
APPLY NOW for student-tandem project on “Decolonising (English) teacher education through bi-directional systems interaction“
Application period for Cameroonian students: 27.11.-14.12.2023 (2 nominees, 2 substitutes)
Application period for German students: 1.12.2023 to 19.1.2024
Places: 2 each
Period of tandem-work: 15.4.-29.12.2024
Project description: https://asa.engagement-global.de/projekt-details.html?id=1104
Application: https://asa.engagement-global.de/bewerbung.html
Details for German applicants: https://asa.engagement-global.de/bewerbende.html
Mentoring by Prof. Martin and Dr. Ekembe; Master theses can be written in the context of this project, and project results will be presented at our ALA conference “Language Awareness, Education, Power” (7.-10.7.2024).
#PHKarlsruhe & #UniversityofYaounde1 are currently also preparing a formal university cooperation.
ASA_project_outline_2
ASA_project_outline_2
Background
To build on “TheLaosExperience” and my conclusions drawn from our work with/in/through Laos since 2015, I used the 3 online semesters during Covid-19 lockdown to look for new international partners who would show an affinity and interest in my bi-directional decolonial approach to decolonising ourselves, our language, university structures, and knowledges production.
I found partners in Ukraine, Israel, Cameroon, and Ghana. Travels to Ukraine and Israel were out of the question last autumn, when I went on Sabbatical leave. The funds we acquired for a DAAD “Fact-Finding Mission” in Cameroon and Ghana, however, could be invested in a month’s work in those two places, at 3 host universities, from November to December 2022.
Next, our newly acquired funds for “Decolonising (English) teacher education through bi-directional systems interaction” will now be invested in 2 German-Cameroonian student-tandems, who will cooperate in the F13 ASA-Academia (global format) programme administered by “Engagement Global”.
Our “ASA Academia Global Format” project runs from April to December 2024 and is fully funded for 4 students aged between 21 and 30, 2 German and 2 Cameroonian.
“TheCameroonianExperience” will thus add to “TheLaosExperience”, to be followed by “TheGhanaExperience”, “TheUkraineExperience”, and “TheIsraelExperience” hopefully before too long.
The structure on this blog will change accordingly. For the time being, the following X account will keep you updated and also show the history of this new development: https://x.com/IsabelMartin762/status/1737884911053217874?s=20
“ASA” is a programme organised by “Engagement Global”, the central contact agency in Germany for development policy initiatives funded by the German Ministry of Economic Cooperation and Development (BMZ), and whose main goal is “to promote fair global coexistence”. “ASA” stands for “Arbeits- und Studienaufenthalte” (work and study stays [abroad]).
http://engagement-global.de
http://facebook.com/engagement.global
@EngGlobal
“Happy New Year” to all readers from Karlsruhe!
Turning a new page,
Isabel Martin
Text & photos by I. Martin
Chaos on our way to Laos – by Antonia Eiser & Patricia Fromkorth (Team XII)
Chaos on our way to Laos: eventful journey to an exciting phase in our lives
The moment had finally arrived, and the countdown to our flight to Vientiane was in its final hours. It had been a journey of approximately nine months from when we, Patricia and Antonia, applied for the project until it officially commenced; a time marked by a whirlwind of excitement, anticipation, and preparation. We were determined to complete our Bachelor’s studies at the University of Education Karlsruhe before starting on this journey, and did.
We embarked on “TheLaosExperience” adventure with unwavering determination, fueled by the knowledge we had gained through three intensive preparatory workshops offered by Prof. Dr. Isabel Martin at the premises of the University of Education Karlsruhe. In those workshops, we did not gain insights into Lao culture but also familiarized ourselves with the procedures that lay ahead (whilst noting repeated gentle hints that no matter what our expectations were, they were certain to be disapppointed to make room for real experiences).
The 25th of September marked the beginning of our grand trajectory. As the pages of this story unfolded, it became clear that our flight to Laos was not without its share of chaotic scenes and unforeseen challenges. However, it was precisely these moments that tested our resilience and brought out our problem-solving skills. As we navigated through the hurdles along the way, we discovered a sense of camaraderie and an unyielding spirit that bound us together. With determination, teamwork, and a zest for adventure, we triumphed over every obstacle. The journey was not just about reaching our destination; it was about the experiences, the people we met, and the lessons we learned. In the end, our journey concluded on a high note, leaving us with unforgettable memories that will forever be etched in our hearts. This adventure will serve as a constant reminder of our ability to overcome challenges and the positivity that radiates from every corner of the world.
On that day, at 8:40 p.m., we commenced our journey by boarding a flight from Frankfurt to Bangkok, ultimately bound for Vientiane. Meeting at Terminal 1 around 6 p.m., we proceeded directly to the baggage drop-off area. Our separation during the semester break led to a detailed conversation, therefore we did not mind that the waiting line appeared to remain long without getting shorter. Nevertheless, curiosity arose as to the cause of this stagnation. After an approximate one-hour wait, the Thai Airways staff started the manual acceptance of travelers’ baggage, revealing that the automated baggage line system was defective. However, things went smoothly. We passed through security without waiting in line and headed to Gate B for boarding.
Finally through the security check …
… and on our way to Bangkok …
After a nearly eleven-hour flight, which felt quite long but was uneventful, we arrived in Bangkok. There, we had to endure a nearly six-hour wait for our connecting flight to Vientiane. During this time, we wandered around the airport to stretch our legs, each watched a movie, and waited for the announcement of our departure gate. We were not really impressed by the airport since we thought it might be more vibrant. It turned out that we waited most of the time in the hallway and we did not figure out how to reach the second floor to go to our gate.1 When we glanced at the display board to check if our flight was listed, we realized that one of the two Thai Airways flights to Vientiane had been cancelled. This prompted us to check our flight number in our app to confirm if it was our flight that had been called off. To our dismay, it was indeed our flight.
As a result, we approached an information desk seeking guidance, since neither of us had encountered such a situation before. They directed us to go to the 3rd floor, which was somewhat perplexing as it did not seem like a typical floor but more like a corridor. To clarify, we sought advice again at another information desk. The staff there requested our boarding passes for our Vientiane flight, which we had received in Frankfurt. After inspecting our flight number, she assured us that our flight had not been cancelled, and there was no need to worry. This added to our confusion because we were convinced that we had seen our flight number on the display board as cancelled. It eventually came to light that our flight number had been changed in Frankfurt, a detail that had not been updated in the app, and we had not noticed until that moment. Consequently, the approximately 15 minutes of panic had been entirely unnecessary.
Later, we proceeded directly to our departure gate to await our boarding, when suddenly an announcement called our names. We were caught off guard but promptly made our way to the airport staff. Initially, they requested our passports and boarding passes, which we provided. Following that, they inquired if we had any specific items in our luggage, but we had difficulties understanding her. To clarify, she showed us a picture of fireworks on her mobile phone. We assured her that we had not brought any explosive items with us. Her response was, “well, but we discovered something in your baggage.”
This further compounded our confusion. They instructed us to take our seats once more while they retrieved our luggage, requesting us to open it in their presence and show them its contents. We complied with their instructions and returned to our seats. It did not take much time, perhaps a few seconds, before Patricia began to speculate about the situation. While we are in Laos, Patricia is going to celebrate her birthday, and her best friend had packed some small birthday gifts for her to open on that day. Patricia quickly deduced that her friend must have included wrapped up sparklers in her baggage and sent her a message to confirm this suspicion. It took a few minutes for her friend to respond, confirming Patricia’s assumption. With a clear understanding of the item and the origin in Patricia’s bag, she proceeded to clarify the situation to the airport staff. At any time, we were fully aware that the mistakes were on us, or perhaps more on Patricia than the airport staff. Of course, they did their job and did it well, which gave us a feeling of security. A note for everyone who flies overseas and may receive presents from their friends: please check them in advance! No sparklers!
… but there is some trouble incoming …
Though the incident was uncomfortable, we were relieved to have clarity on the situation. Following the announcement, the staff called our names out once more and escorted us to an exit where a vehicle marked “customs/security control” with blue lights was parked, carrying Patricia’s luggage. Because Patricia was aware of where she had placed her birthday gifts, it did not take much time to locate them. She handed the gift to the responsible man who checked and seized it, completed a document that Patricia needed to sign, and then left. Following this incident, which might have occurred earlier in Frankfurt if the baggage line system had not been defective, there were no further obstacles on our journey to Vientiane. Eventually, after enduring a turbulent one-and-a-half-hour flight through a thunderstorm, we arrived in the capital of Laos. Mr Aod, one of the most hospitable individuals we have had the pleasure of meeting and our designated contact during our stay, welcomed us at Vientiane Airport around 8:15 p.m. local time.
… our flight from Bangkok to Vientiane …
Initially, he proposed taking us to a restaurant, presuming we might be hungry after our lengthy flight. However, we were primarily exhausted, so we had to decline his kind offer at that moment. Consequently, he purchased water and bread for us and drove us to our dormitory. After giving us a brief tour of our accommodation, he assured us that someone would be sent the following day to assist with any remaining needs, such as obtaining a Lao SIM card. True to his word, this assistance was promptly provided the next morning.
… finally made it to our dorm and met our person in charge, Mr. Aod, who is very kind and helps us a lot.
At this point, all we wanted was a quick shower followed by a good night’s sleep, and that’s precisely what we intended to do. Patricia went first and emerged from the shower feeling refreshed and content. Subsequently, it was Antonia’s turn in the bathroom, with no expectation of any mishaps. However, unexpectedly, a loud noise echoed, and not only did water stream from the shower head, but it also began to pour from the ceiling. After Antonia called for Patricia’s help, we found ourselves in a state of helplessness.
Due to our lack of a Lao SIM card and no Wi-Fi at our accommodation at that time, we were unable to contact Mr Aod for assistance. Furthermore, we had just arrived and had not yet met anyone in the dormitory, consequently our only recourse was to scan the hallway for signs of light seeping through other people’s doors. Fortunately, we spotted light under one door, and despite feeling uncomfortable and embarrassed, we found the courage to knock. A partially dressed gentleman answered the door, eyeing us with curiosity as we attempted to explain our dilemma – that our bathroom was on the brink of flooding, and we had no idea what had gone wrong or how to resolve it.
He did not speak much with us, probably due to the language barrier and a few days later we found out he is one of the chefs at the VEDI restaurant. But still, he went inside his apartment to put on some clothes, and immediately went to our bathroom with us. Other than us, he understood the problem right from the beginning. Of course, the water was not coming out of the ceiling, but out of the bidet shower which mysteriously broke during Antonia’s shower session, explaining the loud bang. We only assumed it was coming out the ceiling because the tube was directed at the ceiling and the water bounced off there. The man turned the water off and called the caretaker of the house. A few minutes later, two men were standing in our bathroom trying to fix the bidet shower, while we were standing next to them embarrassed and feeling guilty.
A few minutes after their departure, the chef from the VEDI restaurant came to our door once more, offering us a bathmat to prevent our room from getting soaked. This thoughtful gesture was unexpected but greatly appreciated. Finally, we could retire for the night, fully prepared to start the project with renewed energy. Our first few hours in Laos demonstrated the kindness and willingness to help others that are inherent in the Lao culture. This made us feel more at home in this new environment right from the start.
Text by A. Eiser & P. Fromkorth
Photos by A. Eiser, P. Fromkorth & A. Thammavong
Notes
1 Editor’s note: The authors kindly agreed to me sharing our conversation after I read this sentence.
IM: “This will become a classic and I will use this [sentence] for my next [paper if you allow]: ‘We were not really impressed by the airport since we thought it might be more vibrant. It turned out that we waited most of the time in the hallway and we did not figure out how to reach the second floor to go to our gate.’ […] One can’t capture the (uninitiated) Northern point of view better [wink]”.
AE/PF: “Glad we made you laugh (even though it was not on purpose [laugh]).”
IM: “Our automatic binary judgment of the other side’s inferiority before questioning ourselves even in the slightest is […] ample reason for this project […]. If I needed a new motivation kick, that was it [thanks].”
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